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Ok cool, That is what made me think of a major vacuum leak some where along with the TPS.

Just sell them. I would not trust the guy who installed the pins/rods in the vice with a hammer or however it was done...

But he said it idles at 2000+ rpm's? I thought that was a tad high.. My bad.. When I unplug my TPS the idle only goes from 750 to 1k rpm

Also, They make some sweet alarms now that will call your cell if it gets tampered with different threat levels. Kinda cool..

It was your 4th post that changed my mind.. I have seen that kind of abuse before personally, Yes I was abused... lol.. Seriously, It is no place for you or your kid. imo..

^^ That took me a while.. :)

No Subaru stickers for you... LMAO j/k

Is there an actual reciept for a brake job in there from them, It sounds like a back yard job to me.

Wow, thats freaking dangerous for a dealer job..

This is from yesterday/today. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19097 I dont think the TPS can cause what you described as far as idle rpm's, Unplug your TPS and see if it idles and drives better. (not likely though) Sounds like a vacuum leak some where possibly? how...

It can't hurt though...:evil2:

No, the AFM can not set a code 51, Again, with the diag block jumpered, the key on/engine off, the AC off, tranny in park, linkage fully closed now look at the codes. If it still flashes a code 51, then you have to adjust your TPS or something is keeping the throttle plate open and this...

Nick: I was referring to the massive open water jackets around the cylinders where 90% of our head gaskets fail. I am not familiar with the 2jz, but it sure looks like Toyota addressed this "flaw" when I look at the 2jz head gasket.. :) No offense meant but when I search for BHG I get like...

Stock CT shaeff?

Coming up on 4 years now I guess for me.

I got 17-21mpg before mods, and 21-25mpg after mods.. I equate it to better flow through the motor.

Cutting oil or wd40 works, motor oil even, Anything to keep the bit from getting to hot and siezing. Saves the bit life too.

If you can get some locking plyers on it, try a little heat from a torch first. Otherwise you may have to grind it flat so you can center punch the bolt and drill it. Use lube so you dont snap your bit. They are hard to drill out.

Did it break off flush so there is nothing to grab onto? Bummer, Just make sure you drill the hole centered (out of the threads) and with the correct size drill bit, I have had luck with them. Usually the heat from drilling will help loosen the bolt a bit.. Buy a tube of Antisieze and put...

MDC is correct... Check plays of turbine shaft. (See page TC-14) Axial play: 0.13 mm (0.0051 in.) or less Radial play: 0.18 mm (0.0071 in.) or less If not within specification, replace the turbocharger assembly.