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Any turbo dipstick will work. If you are missing the dipstick tube that bolts to the turbo and slides into the lower dipstick tube of the block, you will need that also.

Keep in mind its best to take the pan off if you are going to flip the motor over. Any debris that may have accumulated at the bottom of the pan over time could potentially drop all over your pistons and crank when you turn it upside down. I have never been able to turn a completely assembled...

I can't find a good pic, but there is a coolant line coming off the metal coolant hardline that runs around the back of the block, and it should go to the bottom of the throttle body. The other throttle body port should have a hose going to the ISC, then from the ISC a hose should be going down...

Yeah, you can use 3/8" hose. Its a tight fit, heating up the hose end in some boiling water helps stretch it over the fitting (credit to IJ on that one). Just make sure it is oil safe hose.

Even if the alternator was completely hollowed out, you should have at least battery voltage to the positive post of the alternator. Did you check the fusible link?

Well it has been smoking for some time now, I have another thread on here with all the details. Pretty sure it is a ring issue at this point. I just changed the valve stem seals and the first 3 cylinders are still filling up with oil after idling for a period of time. When i take off from a long...

Thanks man. Besides the front and rear bumpers, the car has original paint. BTW happy 1000'th lol.

Haven't updated in a while, here are some recent pics of the car! The motor has developed a bad smoking problem, it is burning a lot of oil. Engine is coming out soon to see what happened. Also, took my car to the track recently and ran a 13.7 with a 2.5 60 ft:nono: Trapped 112 mph. Def need...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=1708&P=3 That's the stock vac line setup, the rear port in the manifold should be feeding the heater valve and the cruise control. You can tee off this for your boost gauge and map sensor. Did you reset your fuel pressure after...

This is a problem. The throttle body ports are ported vacuum, not manifold vacuum. You need a dedicated manifold vacuum source for your FPR, otherwise when you get into boost, the fuel pressure wont rise properly. Connect the proper vacuum source to the regulator and you may find that you will...

Considering you are speed density, boost leaks cannot cause fuel cut. Do you have any way of monitoring the emulated AFM frequency output (not familiar with he map ecu)? Fuel cut will happen around 1500 hz, but depends on other factors including coolant temp, throttle position etc, but for a...

It could be malfunctioning. How are you watching it when you are flooring it and above 4,200 RPM anyways? At low throttle and low RPM it should be open, and it will close at throttle angles above 60% below 4,200 RPM.

Theres a sticky on this :) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?144276-ACIS-Reference-Thread While over 60% throttle and high RPM the valve is opened, effectively shortening the runners.

Yeah make sure you have proper charging voltage with the engine running. Anything that causes the battery light to illuminate will also cause the tail lamp failure light as well as the brake light to illuminate, so it is a charging issue. Make sure the belt is tight and in good shape, make sure...

Right Stuff is FTW. It's very expencive but well worth it IMO, I have not had a leak anywhere that I have used it.

OEM cap fits mine perfectly. Best to keep stock pressure rating of .9 bar/13 Psi.

Wtf are those even round?

Haha that's what I searched to find it. I miss that show.

You have gray plug harness, so you need an ecu that is 89+ with gray plugs on it, it doesn't have to be the exact year. Make sure you get one that is for manual trans.