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i'd be down for a burgandy set (89)

Just out of curiosity, what was the thickness of the sheetmetal you used? (mk4 brakes are currently in the mail...)

What you really end up doing with a manifold like this is creating very uneven backpressure to the individual cylinders. While the manifold will get the job done, the flow paths inside the manifold won't be conducive to high hp applications.

clearly nothing does.

those windows hardly weigh anything - lexan would be a waste of time and it would look like shit.

wrong, colder, denser air has more oxygen requiring more fuel = worse mileage

Are the wheels cast or forged?

I don't think the poster understands his own question. A SSQV-type bov will not fit anywhere near the stock bov location unless you have a long hose connecting that adapter (Ebay link) and the 3000 pipe.

Not a cardomain, and not very informative...just pictures. http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o105/suprarestoration/ adam

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to knock you, I am, however, trying to figure out what components within the clutch would have to fail to inflict the damage seen in your pictures. The pressure plates used are essentially stockers with upgraded diaphragms...that "upgrading" may have caused...

I'm pretty sure that is where your fuel filter hangs out, as well, fuel and brake lines run under here.

If you've destroyed 4 clutches the exact same way, there has got to be some other factors at work here, perhaps crankwalk or some other mechanical damage....Those pictures aren't normal...

define the life of the car for me...

I beleive all of the pressure plates SPEC sells are re-worked stock units. It is probably a hell of alot cheaper for SPEC to start with an already mass-produced pressure plate and modify it accordingly, versus going through the trouble of manufacturing one themselves. Here is a direct quote...

Fire stupidity stories never get old... For me, the first time I had to pull my engine I was so sure I had everything unhooked and it was time to pull the motor. After 5 minutes of jacking, jimmying, and swearing, I realized that my shift knob was still very much one with the shift lever...

just out of curiosity, would you be able to take a stab at the pedal pressure difference between the 3+ and stock? I suppose this is a moot point for me though as the clutch setup previously in my car (using STOCK pp and disc) was rediculously heavy due to old fluid and a near-death slave...

thats the feedback i'm looking for....how is the engagement/disengagement with respect to pedal pressure and smoothness?

I've been in email contact with SPEC and they instructed me to send my PP back to them when I order my 3+ disc (which is actually $80 cheaper - $219 if I have their setup to begin with) because it requires "updading" ($35) for the thicker 3+ disc which apparently includes a slight clamp load...

did you by any chance install them yourself?

I need to replace my spec stage 3 6 puck disc with the 3+ disc (bought it used, not enough material left to warrant putting it back in) and I was wondering if anyone has used it. I like the full face aspect of it and it seems like it should hold quite a bit of power while being streetable...