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wtf.. lol

The point JDub made that some of you missed was this little fact I tried to get at earlier but failed for several reasons.. Point: go as low as you cant with the start up weight because that provides the best protection on a start up because its thinner and will be able to reach the prominent...

Nothing to do with maintence so much as most of them are getting old man.. Mine is shot and ordering the assembly from japan isn't cheap to say the least. But you're right, its air moving capacity is greater. GL anyhow, my intention wasn't to put anyone down :)

I've "heard," that its not the best for your turbo IIRC, though I'm not sure how or why. Perhaps theres no truth to it..

There's no way to EVER get what you have in a car out of it.. Seems like people always get a little over half, especially when a car is heavily modifified. Honestly, just in my BPU '87 I have about 10k+ just in rebuild parts and mods (performance, interior, etc.) I'd maybe get about 6k out of it...

yeah personally the mkiv water pump is Mad ngflhw Tyte.. [never gonna fail like hydrofan will] :sarcasm:

Ever seen what happens when one leaks, or when your pump goes bad? lol It does however flow a living shit-ton of air when its functional though.

It's great that you did the entire gasket set, but thats a lot of work IMO and otherwise un-needed unless you're a complete and utter freak about having your engine like new. Still wish I could afford to do that, I dont know enough to accomplish it myself though.

(sigh).. have you ever been into the fluids section of this website? Just go in there and read everything you can get your hands on and you'll understand why that guys opinion <20 years ago has really no bearing on oils of today. They are so many light years ahead its ridiculous..

hahaha, understood.. :icon_bigg

I think you guys go a little overboard sometimes.. Things to remember are: Front and Rear main seals, cam seals, serpentine and timing belts, check idler and really thats about it. If you're having to replace hoses and thermostats, well lets just say you didnt get the engine that you most...

you just said it my friend, but if you understand this concept then why would you do a 10w-30, knowing that a 5w-30 is more effective and even more so a 0w-30 (though more rare) is most effective.

My mechanic is a genius on anything but oil.. hes like, synthetic is bad for a motor that didnt originally run it. Also, run a thicker oil because were in FL (Castrol diesel 20w-50). Then proceeds to use my friend with an SR as an example, saying that after he went to synthetic 5w-30, he rod...

Best two oils for your motor are Redline 5w-30 and Castrol GC 0w-30 hands down. After discussing this extensively with sir JDub, substantial proof is behind this. The other he recommended was pennzoil platinum 5w-30, use all of these in combo with good filters and your engine will love life...

Good luck, liking everything about the car.. Nice color too. Hopefully I'll have mine running here soon.

In for specifics as well.. :naughty:

TiAL, Neo, Greddy TT+BC FTW. Same as mine.. I run a trust DP though. What single are you going to?

Alright, thanks guys.. BTW, they are OE MR2 injectors IIRC, six of them. I realize that doesn't make a bunch of sense but its a combined set.

By doing the 440's rather than the stock 370's, should I have the 440's cleaned and flow tested? I'm getting them from a friend that says they are like new, however who knows if thats the truth. I'm rather new to this area of things, well injector wise and was wondering how important that...

Well. Finally I found some info on some sites from the UK as well as the US.. I've concluded that from experiences of those using them, that these BCC's and FCD's are rather dangerous.. Even to those who know exactly what they're doing, perhaps even tuned correctly. Tricking the ECU can have too...