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Plus, while you're there, you can replace the shifter bushings and gaskets ;)

Traction arms may be straight, but the bushings do wear (and dry rot as well). Start inspecting. Also I agree on retorquing the subframe as it's overlooked on maintenance. You may just have too much grip and the traction arms could be working more like springs. Upgrade might be in order.

Gotta find the number for the K&N

180 degrees out would be rotating the crank only once instead of twice. Now you CAN install the CPS/distributor wrong... Only mark that should be made on the belt is an arrow so you know what direction it was installed in (if you're not replacing the belt).

Piggybacks work with the stock ECU. Any wires that are cut would have to be reconnected. In the case of piggybacks that go to a MAP based system, you'll have to put the AFM back on as the piggyback translates the MAP signal to one the ECU can use simulating the AFM signal.

Yeah, I saw it's a bolt on style turbo, still a CT26 style hotside, same dimensions IIRC, even has provisions for all the supports. The couple of stock manifolds I've seen that are wrapped didn't cover a whole lot, I think you'd be better off with the ceramic coating (can do inside as well)...

But life doesn't come with a manual, so we don't need one for anything else, right? :sarcasm:

Ignore the belt, look at the timing marks on the gears. No it is not possible to be 180 degrees out. It's a 4 stroke engine...

Wrapping the stock manifold is generally not seen as a good idea. Plus, because of it's shape it's hard to wrap the entire thing effectively. You're better off ceramic coating it and ceramic coating the shields as well. I notice you're missing the front heatshield on the manifold as well. If...

what is this, I don't even :confused:

Yes it will lean the car out if not correctly paired with 550cc injectors. It's a royal bitch to get it onto the accordian pipe too (this is when the pipe is new, if it's old, it's not going on without splitting or cracking).

Correct. Takes 2 full revolutions of the crank to equal one cam revolution. Line everything up, loosen the tensioner bolt and rotate the crankshaft 2 full revolutions (clockwise, if you go the other way you'll be putting tension on the timing belt on the opposite side, plus it will more than...

Might try contacting eagle, but you might not have much luck :(

Weird, no marking on them at all?

You can go far cheaper than that and still get good tools. Hell, I have a smaller version of this one I used for most everything: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-85-Piece-Mechanic-Set/12543087 Personally, I prefure 6 point sockets as they don't strip nuts as easily. Only thing is they're...

Yes, bracket on the back that bolts to the fender. You can see it here where the vacuum line runs.

Yep, and they're rare (thus expensive). Would be nice if someone got a better version made by ATI.

She has one belt only (alt) and it's not all the ribs so it does slip sometimes.

Fine on a car that only has a power band up to 3500 RPM... Brother had one for a while on one of his GM trucks, took it off soon after as it was loud as hell and didn't change the way the engine reved at all. Oh, forgot to mention he cut the shit out of his hand installing it...

Betting they didn't use a torque plate...