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You are correct the later models have no idle screw. What does "10* at NOT" mean? Youll notice on the under-hood emissions label the idle is supposed to be like 700-800 rpm (cant remember exactly). If idle is not correct timing can not be properly set. DO NOT try to manually adjust idle you...

It was for the alarm you can see it well here. Its probably there so toyota didnt have to make two different harnesses for with and without alarm. http://www.ma70.com/bishop92t/techtips/7mlayout2.jpg

the soarer had rear sump, and clutch fan. At least that what i was told. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?118893-Which-JDM-car&p=1531728#post1531728

Not my pic There is a boost sensor for the dash. Next to the left (driver in US) side TEMS cover, it shares vacuum with the cruse controll.

There are thousands of R12 cars running R134, and the biggest issue there is more leaks. I know there are oils that will mix. My metering device is staying with the same refrigerant, only difference is the pump. Unless the two pumps have drastic volume differences, I dont see an issue.

Are you having a "no crank" or "no start" issue? Two completely different issues.

Have you looked under the boot yet to look for cracks? Just the fact that the spark is ABLE to spark out the side of the coil pack is an issue. While yes there is usually a spark plug there, you have proven that the spark is able to ground itself out without going to the cyl, creating a...

looks like code 11 to me. the long pause is let you know it is moving on to the next code http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx the click you are hearing is liklely the starter contacts going out.

do you have the alarm horn, to the right of the tag?

What kind of air filter are you using? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26 There is no code 11. The rest of the codes would have been helpful, all we have for now is a possible AFM issue.

Simply amazing. He has been working on it for 20 years!! I hope it pays off for him.

Compressed air works well. Id remove the rad and blow through the back, so you can get to the whole thing, and that crap came in through the front, itll be easier to blow it out that way. i have also seen 10+* decrease in ac temps doing this (in more late model cars though). Also no solvents needed.

One time while i had the motor out i installed the PS suction hose, then installed the motor, then put the belt on. This caused a kink in the suction hose. Creating noise. Thats the first thing i thought of, when you said you just swapped the motor. And you used ATF right?

cracks in coil packs? under the boot

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0 this works too, every garage should have one, imo. Just fill it up, run the motor to operating temps with heat on max. the whole time you will see bubbles come up to the top, purging the system.

What does a "bypassed turbo" mean? Lol never heard of a BBQ of oil. A blown turbo smokes out the exhaust. Check the metal lines at the bottom of the turbo, they're oil lines (pressure and drain) for leaks. Otherwise look for other leaks. Id bet CPS and/or valve cover gaskets. Or something...

they dont live in plastic boxes do they?

Sorry ran out of fillys, and was out wrangling up som' more. Heard someone was looking for me.

may be the issue, i would make sure the hydraulic system is in top shape before removal though.