Search results

The fill and drain are the only 24mm "bolt" on the trans. So if its a 24mm then yeah thats the right one. Find a replacement and use a chisel to remove the old fill plug.

You need a translator to get rid of the MAF. Otherwise that escaping metered air will cause the conditions you describe. Lookup maft pro.

Do you have both hood shocks, attached to the hood?

yes you can use your auto ecu. Ill do a search for you. http://www.supramania.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1213681

You may have a tps issue but it is not adjustment related. if you are sure it is installed properly, do the checks Poodles mentioned. I would be interested to know what the voltage at VTA is, fully closed and fully open.

Are you planning on machining the block?

The small wire on the starter. where do you have that going to? All you need to crank the motor is power on this terminal (as long as the big wire goes to the + battery terminal).

This is what i am currently looking at purchasing. http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-zt-2withzr-2combo.php Wideband and dataloging, imo a great option.

Definitely saw that one also. You do some incredible work. Thats the one i was looking for, is this the right thread? Anyone who has not seen this one has got to see it. lol.

Lookin good, welcome.

Yes it is pretty common that the valve covers leak onto the exhaust mani (my guess is the spark plug valley is filling w/ oil also). And yes smoke on startup is likely valve stem seals failing. True words

link no longert works, where can i see this video again?

What is the charging (battery) voltage, with headlights on and off? Does charging voltage change from idle to 2500 rpm?

More info and pics of modified pcv system, please. I think its your CT.

likely vacuum leak, tps adjustment wont make your engine surge. EDIT: bubbles in cooling system also will cause this

pull codes http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

I was going to use R12, I dont know what "freeze 12" is (but a quick search shows a cheep R12 alternative?). I am trying to avoid using cheep alternative and R134. I have both R12 and R134 available and my experience R12 is way better.

That i dont know (but i think they have a part number on them), if proper inspection says yours is bad, new is best. It is very common for the IDL contacts to wear creating your issue. Your ECU thinks the throttle is open slightly, raising the idle and advancing the timing.

TPS inspection and likely adjustment or replacment.

normal operating temp right but does the timing change at all?