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Correct. Order for tighten is back bolts (doesn't matter which one first) then driver's side, then passenger side. Passenger side is a slide, if it's bolted down before the driver's side, alignment will be off and you're strip the driver's side (ask me how I know...) Still, some antisieze...

The plastic bracket defiantely needs to be clearanced a bit, it's minor though, not sure if the support will need to be messed with. Also, there are bulbs that you can use that would need no clearancing at all. The issue is they're not as good as the stock D2S bulbs.

I think those relays are grounded through their brackets... Also, if that's the only temp switch, the ECU might be pissed now...

I used nickle antisieze on my bolts. Tends to be messy at first, but once it really drys on there and becomes like a coating it works great.

Not done yet ;)

UPDATE: Coming along nicely. Will more than likely have to pain the reflector on the housing on this one since the chrome is so cheap that some of it came off when I peeled the low tack blue painter's tape off. I even stuck it to my shirt first! This one is about halfwa done, most of the...

Ran an MSD blaster coil on my truck way back when, worked great at first (not hard considering the stock coil died), but it didn't last. My opinion of MSD and Accel is pretty terrible, brother worked at O'reilly and had to deal with tons of returns on them from failing (lifetime warranties).

I have a very early version of that downpipe, and it has the tab. Newer versions without the tab don't work at all and I've told the vendors on ebay that several times...

Not gonna argue that it wouldn't help, cause it will ;) Now I will say that the gussets are on the wrong parts of the X, besides that, the brace will work fine. Most people get these cars with 150K+ miles on them, take the top off and go "omg it's a wet noodle!" They neglect to remember...

A lot of the "shimmy" is simply the heavy windshield moving around...

Can get a stocker for as little as $30

EPC shows different part numbers.

You can also do through the hole for the slave.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=MT&P=6

Yay, all the parts are in finally. Now to start working on them :)

AFPR would be ideal, as will another tuning device. First off, you need a wideband to see what's going on though.

Not going to cause a burnt valve from an exhaust leak.

System manipulates the hydrofan.

Startup you want the lowest weight possible. The oil does not get thicker as it heats up, it just doesn't get as thin as it's supposed to if it was a single weight.

Yes, all things being ideal, no way you went lean and killed it. First thing first, check for codes. Hell, might have been running too rich and fouled the plugs...