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255 isn't a big stretch on a 10" rim

that's what i thought. i just need it to last for a couple months, till winter. i have a spare motor, but i want to wait till i can build it right. :)

soooo. my mk3 smokes after i decel with it in gear. if i take it out of gear while i come to a light, no smoke. i was told it was either valve seals or rings. also, it got worse after i did an oil change the other day. any ideas?

i had to replace mine due to the extreme under hood heat. the damn internals melted.

valve cover gaskets. apparently it's very common.

my failure light has been coming on and off. if i find the problem, i'll let you know what it was.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/Cobra281s/2011-08-18_192844.jpg better let her know that one of those wheels is on the wrong side of the car.

ok, i'll do that. thanks guys.

if i had a boost leak, wouldn't it hit fuel cut all the time? it has no issues unless i try to get more than 10lbs of boost. i drove it all day today without the boost controller hooked up, and had no problems. also, i've checked all the clamps myself.

i'm in new york. i have a lex afm on the shelf, and i'm trying to find some inexpensive injectors. the car acts wierd. it doesn't always hit fuel cut, so i think it might have something to do with the weather and air temps.

i see. i can't get past 10psi without hitting fuel cut. i ran the car without a boost controller, and it hits 8psi. i also tried with a manual boost controller set to just over 10psi, and i hit fuel cut intermittently. is there anything i can do to remedy this? thanks......

i'm sure this has been answered, but i can't remember where i saw it. is it true that a manual ecu has a higher boost cut setting than an auto one? i read somewhere that the auto one is 8psi and the manual one is 10psi. the reason i ask, is because i have a 90 with a manual swap done but...

i too am getting crappy gas mileage. while i too have a bic ddp and catless 3" exhaust, i don't think that's the problem.

when i bought my supra the cable was broken. after trying to take off the upper bumper and getting half of the latch bolts off, i ended up using a big effen pybar and ripping the latch out.

well, it's just as i feared. i need a new master cylinder. it showed no signs of leaking, but when i pulled it away from the booster it was wet inside. oh well. i called 5 local parts stores, and nothing. looks like i'll be ordering one.

did you have to roll the rears? i'm going to take off my 315's and put 275's on my 17x10.5's. this way i can lower it a bit.

there's no evidence of fluid on ON the booster, so i will pull the master off and look IN the booster.

gee thanks. i knew i could count on you guys.

i thought it was the pads getting low, but it has happened again after only a week. also, there's no fluid under the master cylinder.

so, my brake fluid is starting to go down a little at a time. i checked the calipers, and the master and there's no signs of leaks. the car is rust free, and all the lines look great. does anyone have any idea where it might be going? i was thinking maybe there's a leak inside the booster...