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I have a 92 with a siezed power sliding sunroof. I hit the button and it lifts up about 1/4" and stops. The motor will keep running, but there must be an issue with the tracks. I've tried turning the manual screw, but it won't budge. I've taken the headliner out, but still can't see any tracks...

You should save your money on the Haynes. Go here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/

A while back there was a thread mentioning a possible carbon fiber one as I was in the market for one, too. I don't know that it ever materialized into anything, though. I think it was Retro-spec, but not sure if they're still in business.

I finished resealing the oil pan after dropping the subframe. Also had to replace the motor mounts that ripped in half, replaced the steering rack bushings, water pump and radiator. It was a long weekend spent under the car, but well worth it to get the car back on the road.

I had the same problem. My wire was really brittle, but I was able to solder and heatshrink just the inner signal wire. Code 21 went away.

+1 This happened to me. PO had the turbo heat shield off and melted the wires. I replaced the sensor, both ends of the plug, reset the ECU and still had Code 21. I changed the ECU and haven't had the code since.

Running the car with the Lexus AFM allows more air to enter the engine, but you need more fuel to go along with it (bigger injectors). The previous owner of my car only put the AFM on and the car was running max lean according to the wideband. I swapped it for the stock AFM and AFR's are where...

Not sure if they actually have it in stock, but MVP Motorsports still lists it on their site.

If you mean because of the headlight washers, I think Toyota kept them on the Canada cars after the 89 change. Or are you talking about something else?

Car looks great. I wanted to find out more info, but couldn't find either part on their website.

Those are all of the seals (plus the cam seals) that I replaced when I did this job a couple months ago. My timing gear slid right off without any problems. There is a woodruff key on the timing gear as well as on the crank pulley.

Here is a pic of my BOV setup:

So I tested the alternator and got about 12-13volts with the car off. Started it up, turrned on everything electric and it was at 14-15v at first. Once it warmed up, it dropped to about 13. I raised the throttle to 2000 RPM and voltmeter went back up to 15v. My voltmeter is a cheap analog, so...

Hmm, that's an interesting thought. Although when the car dies, it fires right back up. If I don't drive the car for awhile (maybe 3 weeks), the battery will go dead. I figured I just have a drain somewhere. Now that I think about it, the windows do sometimes seem to roll down slow and other...

I just rechecked all silicone vacuum lines and all are on good and zip tied. I looked at the dash pot adjustment screw and it is still lined up with the factory yellow paint. I tried to turn it just to see if it would and it appears to be stuck and I didn't want to strip the slot on the end of...

Well, I have been chasing an oil leak and haven't driven the car much at all in the last couple months (probably less than 30 miles). I can't think of anything that I've changed or installed that would have affected it this way. I've been changing just about every oil seal, though. I just went...

Yes, it's a turbo and have a recirculated HKS BOV and checked to make sure my clamps are tight on the recirc hose.

I have been having an issue with an intermittent low idle/dying problem. I searched but couldn't find any threads with a similar issue. Occasionally, if I'm driving and let off the gas real quick the idle drops to about 500 RPM and wants to die. Most of the time it catches itself and idles...

I have bought from them several times without any problems. They ship out of somewhere in CA (El Cerrito, I think). I have placed orders on Sunday and receive them in Dallas on Friday. Part prices are slightly higher than buying on Champion Toyota's website, but shipping is a little cheaper and...

Yes set your crank at 0 and make sure the marks on the cam gears match the notches on the timing cover behind them. Once you put the belt on, rotate the crank a couple times to make sure all is still lined up. Then, jumper E1 and TE1 and set CPS with your timing light to 10 degrees. Once you...