Key in ON position but engine off, diag block is jumpered. THW is 4.97 volts at the ECU and sensor side of the harness. I have continuity back to the ECU on both wires. I checked connections of E2 at AFM & TPS and all have continuity to each other and body ground. I can't find any breaks in the...
Its a cold lean problem. 0 volts means its pulling fuel out, right? Cold start is showing lean on the wideband 17+. When VF is at 2.5 (2.2 on mine) the TCCS is neither adding or subtracting fuel and the car runs fine with near stoich AFR. I am doing absolutely no changes only turning car off and...
New O2 sensor came in today. I installed it and absolutely no change. Still lean AFR when cold and no issues when warm. When warm, there's no cross counting of the new sensor at 2500rpm still stays dead at just over 2 volts. When I let off the throttle RPM drops quickly to 0 and recovers to the...
I dug out my old analog meter. It's pretty basic, but there doesn't seem to be much of a delay with it. Hoping it's good enough.
I jumpered the diag block and probed the Vf signal at the ECU. Started the car cold and let it idle. Same poor running condition as usual. I let it idle for about...
Ok, so first thing I did was test the heater circuit of the O2 sensor and it was within TSRM specs. I also checked for continuity between the signal wire of the O2 sensor and the Ox terminal, good there. It seems the wiring was good, so I moved on to the sensor itself.
So, I started the car...
I checked the ECT cold and got 1.968kohms. It's about 85 degrees so it seems like it's within spec.
I left it unplugged and tried starting, just to see what happens. It didn't want to start or if it did it only stayed running for a second at most. If i tried to give it gas, it would die...
I'm not getting a code 43 which is related to the STA signal, but I'll try checking later this evening. Does the ECU use the STA signal in calculating the injector duration?
90+ only came with driver's side airbags. As far as I know a passenger side airbag was not available on the MKIII. I have a 92 and no passenger airbag.
I'm having an issue with my cold starts being too lean. I have 550's and Lexus AFM running on a JDM ECU. I do not have any codes showing. On a cold start while idling, Vf shows to be 0 volts and the AEM wideband is showing high 17's or blanks out. Vacuum gauge shows about -14 and the car...
I remember a while back one of the companies that makes Carbon Fiber parts for our cars talked about creating one of those pieces for the harness. I know others have had issues dealing with those companies, but it may be worth an email to ask. Just be cautious before sending money to them.
I picked up my seats after having new leather covers installed. I washed the car and took a couple pics. My car is finally back on the road after sitting for a few years!
Can anyone help me with the part number for the bottom A/C Fan temp switch? I've looked through the EPC, but can't identify this one. Keyword search didn't seem to help either.
Is it possible to pass emissions testing with a JDM 7MGTE with JDM ECU? I have no EGR, so I'm not sure if I'll fail for high NOX. I'm hoping the JDM ECU/Engine might run clean enough to pass, since it's tuned for no EGR. I'm in TX and I know that states emission levels vary, but not sure if I'd...
Someone else may be able to chime in, but I know the sensors on the water neck are different. There may be a couple more. You might be able to swap some of the sensors from your original motor to the new one.
If you have a yellow plug engine, harness and ECU, your issue will be the body plugs. They will not plug into each other. I'm not sure that re-pinning the plugs is possible as some might be a different size terminal. You could take your chances with cutting and splicing the plugs from your GE...
I have a 92 and just refurb'ed my harness. The wire that goes to the Water Temp sensor is Blue/White on both the 92 and 89 donor harnesses I used. It's the sensor on the bottom left side of the thermostat housing. The wire looks like it was spliced in the last picture you posted. The PO probably...
The brown shielded wire is the signal wire. The red/green is one of the heater wires (there are two). I think the other is red/black. I had to solder an O2 connector that I took off another harness, and didn't have any problems.
I think it is pretty much the same with just a few differences (location of the motor). I finally figured out that the motor needs to be removed to be able to manually open the roof using the slotted screw. I'll see if the adjustments are similar and report back. Thanks bio!!!
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