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Still got the stock clutch fan/shroud and has the 2 aux. fans. Stock radiator and condenser as well.

Yea that'd be cool too! I heard from someone a lifetime membership is $35,000.

http://www.atlantamotorsportspark.net/ DAWSONVILLE COUNCIL APPROVES FULL ZONING ATLANTA MOTORSPORTS PARK Atlanta Motorsports Park is a Country Club for fast/exotic cars, bikes and karts We are pleased to announce zoning for Atlanta Motorsports Park has been fully approved and the construction...

:rofl:

I might have to go up and grab a can or two of r12 from a guy selling them... AC shop said it would be $150 to add maybe a pound of r12.. My AC blows kinda cool and then gets warm..Not cold.

The trim wont be flexing much, however it might when you are installing it which could cause the bondo to crack and crack the paint as well. I would use epoxy made for plastic/rubber. Auto parts stores sell this 2 part epoxy that's meant for plastic bumper repair. The stuff is super had to...

With the trim on the bottom of the hatch glass, you have to remove the plastic panel on the underside of the hatch and remove all the little nuts that hold the trim on(8mm IIRC). Pull it up and you will see how it is held on by the corners. The studs have little gaskets on them but I just made...

Hang in there fuzz! I've been smokeless-tobacco free for 2 weeks now.. It's been a little tough but I've gone through 4 packs of Orbit gum and almost a bag of life savers! I starting finding little things to do with both of my cars to keep me busy as well.

Driftmotion sells the kit you need to put bigger exhaust studs in the head.

If you have any good machine shops around you they should be able to make that flange relatively easy.

wat u can't type either.. I've been drinking since 7pm..shit.. I can't believe I drank steel reserve 2nite..lel

lol..I use the stock jacking points with my floor jack all the time.. and stick the jack stands under the frame rails. And yes, someone forgot to mention to you to remove the fill plug before the drain plug, for this very reason. oops. When I went to school.....we just used car lifts. :dunno:

I would do the ronnieK subframe bushings for sure! http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89326 And like others have said, get sway bars..and when you do make sure you upgrade the links for them too. The rear links are plastic!

I have one of those too. ;) I think my ct has too much shaft play and I'd also have to figure out how to keep the waste gate flapper closed. I think I'll just sell it instead..

Why do you want to do this? Sounds like more trouble than its worth. It's still going to take you longer to shift than it is to push in and release the clutch. Air sounds like your only option. I don't think linear actuators are fast enough. The one you posted is a pull type but it looks like...

You also forgot to mention that you need a GM clutch when doing the AR5. If I don't decide to do my own rebuild when the time comes..I know who I'm bringing mine to!! :biglaugh:

Yup. It's a GM powerglide transmission. The 7m sounds great revved that high! :drool:

I have a ct and some random steel pipes sitting in my garage..Also have a couple tanks of propane..hmmmmmmm I'd just have to figure out the fuel metering, oil supply and ignition source.

These things are very cool, I was looking into making one a while back with a spare turbo I had. The big manifold feeding the turbine housing is the actual combustion chamber where fuel is dumped in and mixed with the compressed air and it has an ignitor of some sort in there. You have to meter...

Yea I know what that's like..I got rear ended in my Honda and it just looked like the bumper had a big dent. But then I noticed big creases in the quarter panels. Had to stick it on a frame machine and then shrink the qp metal.