Search results

Where is your fuel pressure regulator? You should not need to make any new holes in the accordion tube. The metal pipe attached to your valve covers is for an NA, throw it away. Get your car looking like this, until then you can not be helped. Not my pictures.

Will you quit recommending that!? The OP is obviously trying to repair the car the correct way. shoo_itt, Yes if you mess with that screw it will throw off the factory settings.

Damn, can you drive it like that? Oh yeah, Welcome.

Adjust and/or replace your TPS.

Evin if you had one key of each code, itll be less than $40.

As shown here, the light gets power from plug E3 pin 2 And the computer grounds the light at M1 pin 8 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=49

Pull codes. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=52

Whats that? An "an mandrel"? If the above link shows the wrong info, where is the right info?

Why not test it, to be sure. Using a hand vacuum pump, pump up the booster and see if it holds vacuum. If it does hold, then hit the brakes once and see it it still holds. It sounds, to me, like a leaky booster and some air lingering in the lines. Was the master bench bled?

There is something seriously bent. You could replace parts until your blue in the face, with out helping the issue. Remove the other front wheel and compare sides, there is likely multiple issues. Also first check the control arm mounts on the subframe, as it may be unrepairable. I am...

Yeah id just hook it up to the divorced DP, then if you find no leaks, you know that the DP is the noise your hearing. Or plug it while cold, and see if and see if you can still get the same noise while "bliping" the throttle.

Smoke it. http://www.redlinedetection.com/p-13-smoke-pro-total-tech-w-standard-accessory-kit.aspx You said easiest, i know its not the cheapest alternative. But any reputable shop will have one of these and diagnosis will be about an hour or less. May be easier than pulling your hair out. Also...

Not going to happen for 3k. If you can double your budget, then it might be doable. But definitely worth the time and money.

Your right, run it.

Get some readings from a high quality, mechanical test gauge. Before you make any repairs.

As mentioned twice in this thread, if you get the maft pro, you dont need any AFM. Maft pro is a translator, to take a map sensor signal (0-5V), and send the stock ECU a signal it understands (HZ). Thus eliminating the AFM.

m1 plug, pin 1&2

The one in the second pic is the reverse switch, for reverse lights. The one in the third pic is a ground. There should also be a ABS speed sensor. I think i see it in the first pic but its hard to tell.

You could try, but that doesn't leave allot of room to work. Plus rads are easy to remove, two bolts, two hoses (four if your auto), and the lower fan shroud, done.

The condenser, is the radiator looking thing, in front of the radiator. I think IJ is talking about removing the radiator and placing it in front of the rad. Then reinstalling the rad. Hence, between the radiator and condenser.