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check the efi main relay. it's the round one in the fuse box under the hood. my car was doing the same thing. it was getting worse and worse till it finally went bad.

bingo. i just figured it out too. looks like i need to fix that issue now. strangely now my car doesn't hit fuel cut like it was. i have to believe it's related somehow. thanks for the response. i knew someone would know the dealio.

i think i blew it up. :(

ok guys, i have a weird one for you. i've been dealing with a little bit of a rough idle and extended crank when starting that i think is due to the way i gapped my new plugs. first off, i installed ngk's that cross over to autolite 3922's. i know the stock gap is 32, but i was told to gap...

hey all. i'm looking at a set of 15x8 weld pro stars for my mk3. i'm no good at figuring out backspacing, so does anyone know if these will fit if they have 3-1/2 " backspacing? also, i should ask if they will fit over the brakes as well. thanks...................

i did have a leak in the intercooler pipes. i have since replaced them with all new hardpipes and new couplers. the car really only hits fc when i'm getting on it from first to second. it almost never does it any other time. i installed a fcd and it went away, bvut i had some issues with running...

i've been over every thread i could find concerning fuel cut to try and figure it out. i understand that some cars have a higher threshold before hitting fc than others. my question is why? if in fact fuel cut is monitored by the afm, tps, and the ecu..... is it possible to replace any or all...

i have a lex afm, 550's, walbro 255, and an afcii that i haven't installed yet. i plan on going megasquirt in the spring and doing it the right way. honestly, i was just looking to get a couple clean passes at the track this year as it is. i guess i'll just hold off till i can get the ms...

ok, so i'm still looking for some advice from someone who has used one of these. i replaced the autolite 3923's for the ngk's that cross over to 3922's. when revving the car in neutral, it stumbles through the rev range. at this point i uninstalled the fcd, and the car revs perfectly. i took...

i have the h&r's. the front is definitely lower than the rear. the only issue i have is with the downpipe scraping sometimes.

well, it's all installed now. the good news is there's no more fuel cut. there is bad news though......... the car runs rough, almost like the plugs are bad. for example.... if you're going 30 or so in 3rd gear and give it gas, it stumbles a bit then clears up. i just changed the plugs a few...

if you have 550's, you need other things to go with them. i would get a set of 440's for now and save the 550's for later on.

it's all good. did i forget to mention that i'm color blind? that's the reason for all the questions. lol

i know, i know. i've been at this for a few hours already. i was looking to tap in at the igniter, but i could do it on this side of the firewall. believe me, i totally appreciate the help.

i'm so close. anyone want to clue me in as to which rpm signal wire is easiest to use? i'm mounting the fcd behind the glove box.

sweet. so i use the ks wire, but what one for the rpm signal. i have the power and ground figured out. lol

the hks instructions don't come up. i checked that site like an hour ago. i can't find the type k instructions anywhere.

dammit. i just noticed that too. just checked it again, that's what alldata has for a gte. they could be wrong.

here's a pinout for my car which pins do i use to install the fcd. thanks.. not sure which afm pin to use, or which ign .

i know that everyone says not to use an fcd, and i understand why. at this point i plan on using it with a lot of tuning. i tried to use crisps instructiuons, but they were only good if i have an hks fcon. i found this after hours of looking and need to know if it's correct for a 1990 supta...