So I'm going from a 86.5 7M-GE & W58 in a 86.5 body. Theres a 90 7M-GTE and R154 going into it. I've read I need the motor mounts that go with the post 89 engine but the mounts on my frame don't need any changing correct?
Also I think I read theres a different tranny crossmember and mounts...
That doesn't sound too bad, I just hope it's got some low end balls, looking for a smooth powerband.
Are adjustable cam gears a necessity, will the stockers work in the meantime?
OK, sourced an engine for my build:) Need Advice:1zhelp:
Facts
Gonna have Eagle Rods/Wiseco 9:1 pistons. .020" over.
Decided on SIP's Fearra valve package and a PnP for the head
7M Crank and Post 90 block
HKS Stopper HG
3.5" exhaust from BIC
ETS intercooler
Fidanza aluminum flywheel...
I was also a little concerned but comign from a NA-T, didn't want to loose all that nice low end torque. I'm hoping 9:1 will be a happy/safe medium.
Thats what I like to hear:)
You have a PM.
Ok, I thought you said you had no plugs on the car side, someone cut them plugs off.
So instead of wiring in the the jumper harness and plugging the cd deck harness into it, just wire in the cd deck harness and be done with it.
I went throught the same BS because the PO did the same and...
Theres really no point in wiring in the harness for your car, then plugging it into the harness for your deck, when someone allready took the liberty of cutting your plugs off the car harness...Hope that makes sense.
Buy a multi meter, find your 12volt constant, 12 volt switched, ect and wire...
If you certain its not the gauge, its gotta be valve timing. Even with a bunk HG install I'm sure some cylinders would get pressure.
When you say you hear air escaping past the rings is it coming out the PCV on the valve covers?
How did you know this happened? Low boost, or some sort of noise? I take it your running a MAP based computer, or else any serious boost leaks would of been noticed.
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