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http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?114-Arizona-Performance ;)

Likely custom for racing. Woudln't be surprised if the regulator was the same from another car though. Also, I could be wrong, but that heatshield that was posted isn't JDM at all. I remember seeing pics of it not too long ago and being made by someone...

550W should be plenty for a non-SLI setup. Popping sound could be a lot of things, I'm weird and I have to figure out what failed and look at the carnage :)

Drilled, definately not (unless you like cracks), slotted maybe, but it's still a waste. There's not a whole lot of mass to work with, so outside of a good set of aggressive pads and quality rotors (ones without slots or holes), there's not much you can do. Going bigger is the better option if...

Reuse your case. You might even be able to reuse your PSU, but it might be missing the connectors that are used these days. 4 gigs of RAM is fine, especially since you're not gaming. Main thing to do is to get a budget and work inside of it.

Sounds like the seals in the booster have gone bad :(

Nah, I wouldn't do something like that :) Though I will say that squishyness sounds like more than an ABS issue.

:: facepalm :: There are exactly three visible vacuum lines on the EGR system, and 2 of them are at the back of the engine and not noticable. Outside of that, it's not a good idea. (you can search the forums for it, just use "EGR*" without the quotes)

The metal ones suffer the same issue if you have underbody rust...

The guy kissing the chick is a hero man. That's a memory that will last for a lifetime :rofl:

There's also a brace and bolt on the back of the PS pump IIRC that needs to be loosened to change the belt. Had that bolt get loose and the belt would flip over at high RPM.

Not me thankfully, but seen it happen before ;)

The proper way to remove it is the reverse of putting it on (i.e. electroplating). Any other way damages the base metal and isn't environmentaly friendly (chromium is extremely toxic)

You don't sandblast to remove chrome...

Yep, instead of Toyota beafing up the arms and the tabs, they used plastic endlinks that would hopefully break before the tabs. One of the only questionable things Toyota did on these cars...

Booster has to be adjusted anytime you replace the master (though it's usually not)

Cutting springs CAN be done safely, but unless you're cost limited (like the Lemons guys) it's far smarter to just buy springs.

Also comes from the large wheel in the small compressor housing causing surge (real compressor surge)

Also, there is a metal tab that makes a heatshield for it, do not break it off. If it's missing, that hose won't last long...

You can get up in there and push on the lever that the cable attaches to. No it's not easy (especially not with a huge intercooler)