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Ditto on the Simple Green. Then flushed with water and dried with shop vac. worked great----

My 87 did the same exact thing, same simptoms. It had devoleped a small HG leak on cyl. #6 . Slowly got worse. For nearly a year temp would spike then go back down, white smoke on start up and air in the cooling system. Then began missfiring on startup in the morning for a few mins. till it...

The calipers are very easy to rebuild. The pistons are hard chromed and the seal is mounted in the caliper itself. When I did mine they were orig. with 187k miles on the clock. Bought 4 kits from Champion Toyota @ aprox $17ea. This is a fairly simple job.

You pay for the key blank - they will punch the key for "free" if you have the key code. The code is one letter followed by four numbers.

The charge is for the key blank only. Something like 4$-$6.

I called Toyota National customer ser. and was put thru to another office and was told that "No" they can no longer look up Key codes for our cars. This was about 7 Mos. ago.

Toyota can no longer provide Key codes for the MKIII based on vin#. Remove the passanger side tumbler assembly and write down the numbers found on the side. Take them to the dealer, they can put a blank in there set the #s on the machine and it will make the key. My local dealer did it...

Not if the heater control valve is "open". The heater is pretty simple. If the engine heats up (hot water) and it flows thru the heater core there is going to be hot air when the fan blows accross it. Either the valve is not allowing water thru or the heater core is cloged or blocked. Once...

Here ya go-- Champion Toyota (Jeff Watson) has them : CPS cover : part #19121-42010 $4.13 Dust seal (gasket) : part#19127=42010 $1.97

Turn on the heater with the engine warm check the lever - see if it is all the way up. When vacuum is applied the lever is pulled up and opens the water valve letting water flow to the the heater. If it does not move up you can find a way to hold it open or route the vacuum line straight to...

Have you checked your VCV (vaccum control valve) for the heater. Its under the wiper motor on the firewall. Mine worked intermitant like that before failing completly.

They are not hard to find - they show up frequently on Ebay and the F/S section here.

Can't wait to see replys to this-----

Yes, I used needle nose vise grips to get the clamp off. Then replaced the hose. The hose goes to the ICS (idle speed control). You have to work blind and it helps to have small ninja like hands to reach under the intake mani. The factory clamp is the spring type you squeez and pull back - I...

The most common choice is JE pistons with Eagle rods. If you going for really big HP other rod choices might be longer lived.

Here is the link for an "online compression calculator" if you need it. http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

I am at the same point. I have rounded the 14mm nut (Using a flare wrench) the hard line is no longer tight but the joint refuses to budge??? Anyone know the thread size for the flare nut (inside not the wrench size) I think I can cut the line get a flaring tool and remake the joint. A new...

This only comes with a "new" enging harness. It is not listed as a seperate part. I had to replace mine with 1/2" plastic wire wrap like used on the rest of the harness, it fit snugly across the timming cover in the same place.

I need to reseal the fuel line union (joint from hard line to flex line in engine bay) as it was broken loose during engine removal. I have tried everything I can think of to break this joint loose. Now it looks like I will end up having to replace the hard line to finish the job. Is this joint...

You will be able to identify the yr. of the block and see if it matches the car, but thats about it. Its not like American muscle cars where you can check for matching #s of engine, trans, body trim etc. Although I could not find it someone here posted how to check block #s for year of production.