Fixed that for ya.
OEM Toyota gasket is good. Better than a MHG if you can't/won't machine the block deck. If you keep away from detonation, and use an appropriate torque spec, it will be fine.
I'm always a bit wary of making the head gasket TOO strong. If it's the weakest link that fails, and...
I've heard of other people getting a code 32 on a 7M-GTE after attempting to clean the AFM as well.
The TSRM at CygnusX1 is a 1990, perhaps the code 32 is valid on older, yellow-plug GTE TCCS units as well, like how the 1990 TSRM doesn't list a code 11 anymore?
Had one of those moments...
Some time back, I bought one of those eBay silicone hose kits that supposedly has every hose that you need for the engine. So I guess I have a formed hose after all. Maybe I'll change out the one for the throttle body at the same time.
Still going to yank the upper...
That's what I got in my DM gasket kit. I just cut the opening to the correct size... but now I need another one, since I'm going to yank the upper intake manifold tomorrow.
While my '89 was NA, I built it into a very nice IASCA SQ car. It was something that I could do. It doens't have a whole lot of that left in it. After I got the turbo engine, someone broke in and ripped out most of the good stuff. I kind of patched it back together to have music, but I never...
Well, that might be an option if the whole thing wasn't covered in massive amounts of grime. By feel, I'm having trouble telling if the original constant tension clamp or a worm clamp is installed, let alone getting something on there.
The killer on the actual part is that the local dealers are...
I just installed the Aisin from Driftmotion earlier this month. Too soon to say if it lasts, but it's the OEM brand, and it was really easy to install.
I went to install my EV1 clips... And can't find them. So I cut them off the harness from the '89. I'll install the new ones on that harness...
Well, while installing my PTE560cc injectors, I managed to damage the coolant hose that goes from the ISC to the pipe nipple underneath the intake runner to#2.
So I obviously need to replace it, since I don't want a coolant leak, but I'm a bit stymied as to how to approach getting to it. If...
Removed stock CT26. Now sitting upside down leaking oil past the seals that aren't really meant to be immersed, but like being dry even less.
Removed stock oil cooler fitting. Installed 7M-GE oil filter union, and oil filter relocation adapter. Still need to remove stock oil cooler, and decide...
Fine. BE that way. :D
I'm always up for better experimental design... And I'm still going to go visit the Costco parking lot after about 9:00 PM on a Sunday.
The rewire isn't as daunting as it might seem. Probably the hardest thing is getting to the knock sensors under the intake manifold. I always have fun in particular with the rear one, becuase it involves my least favorite fastener anywhere on my MA70, which is the nut behind the starter.
If the...
Looks like what you got was an upgraded disk and a stock pressure plate. That's a pretty common stage 2 upgrade set. The other way is a stock disk and upgraded pressure plate, which is typical to the Action clutches DM sells.
It's easier to verify that you've got a non-stock pressure plate. I...
It's absolutely true.
I took the tower mounts, and bolted in a piece of bar aluminum to each side. I put a screw through one, so that it left a sharp point out the side, then used rubber bands to strap the two pieces of bar together. The idea being that if the strut towers were moving relative...
Just do a quick test with a multimeter. With the clutch up, the switch should be open. With the clutch not up, it should be closed.
Page 100 of the TEWD seems to indicate that the cruise control clutch switch goes to the starter (Seems weird to me.) So maybe bypassing the clutch starter switch...
There are 2 switches on the clutch pedal.
The one that affects the cruise is right at the top of the pedal. It is normally open, and when you press the clutch pedal, even a little bit, it closes. This is so that the cruise control will shut off before the clutch can disengage.
The other one is...
Well, my next experiment will be to revive the flex measurement rig that I used to see what good the front strut brace actually does (And discovered that it was useless, as there is no flex between the front strut pillars at anything that my tires could handle.)
My idea is to measure flex...
Installed my PTE 560cc injectors. Discovered that whomever was in there last had done some bad things. Lots of bolts that weren't tightened, things that were routed badly. Ugh.
Mostly took off the CT26 in preparation for the turbonetics. Didn't quite get everything off. I am having trouble...
what's wrong with the TSRM proceedure found on page FI-101 which I linked on the last page? (Well, except that was just checking. To adjust, you need to go 2 more pages forward to FI-103.)
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