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And you're asking this in the 7M-GTE tech section... why?

Go to a different shop, dude, these guys have NFI. AFAIK, there are only 2 different rack styles, and those are '90+ for PPS or non-PPS. The steering damper is usually found on pre'89 models, and can be connected. I have one on my '89 subframe (Square mounts) though I believe that it wasn't...

I have a programmable alarm output on my wideband that could be used for such a thing. Start looking for aftermarket electronics. Edit: A relatively simple circuit could be used as well, just a simple comparator on the boost gauge sender signal. I've been looking at the factory boost gauge for...

If you have the complete stock AFM, you can just swap the black box sensor assembly over. They're the same part, even with the different AFM body, so they're interchangeable. If your original AFM is known good, then just use the black box from it.

Porting the head makes gains. The intake manifold... Maybe. The exhaust manifold... Is actually pretty good.

Well, a code 14 is the ignition system. Probably the broken coil. Code 52 will mess with things. That's the knock sensor signal. Mind you if you've got a severe enough ignition system malfunction, what I understand is that the ECU listens through the knock sensors for ignition events, and if it...

Running a quart over is about oil starvation. It's to prevent the situation where the oil in the pan is low enough during high G force driving to get air to the oil pump inlet. More oil in the system means a higher oil level in the pan. I'll have some information on the difference between the...

Bolted in the turbo, connected oil and coolant drain/feed lines, bolted in a few other random bits and pieces. Realised that I've misplaced my 4" coupler for the turbo inlet :( More work on IC piping/routing. Just puttering, really, I can't get this finished until I address the oil filter...

All the "hate" is about one thing. This is a problem that is more than easy enough to fix properly, rather than have this band-aid which may not even permanently resolve it. I'm not against replacing wires, or relays, or whatever, so long as the problem is understood, and the solution is clear...

My information agrees with that. you can check the code ont he vehicle data tag. There will be a line that reads "A/T: " and then have the codes. The axle (A) code will be Gxxy where xx is one of 28 = 4.300:1, 29=4.100:1, 30=3.727:1, 31=3.909:1 and y is 4=4 pinion open, and 5=4 pinion limited...

I would have been okay if things had been clean, but with them in the mess that they were... pulling the intake manifold turned out to be a good idea. I could probably manage it again, with things as they are now. I don't know that pulling the alternator would even be needed from under the car...

And if the ignition switch is the root cause of the problem? Do you know that it isn't?

@Poodles: My point there being that they address the positive power supply, but not the ground, which is way more wiring, longer wire runs, and complicated circuits. The power supply to the headlights is dirt simple. Main fusable link to the fuse box (If you have a problem with THAT wire, you've...

Not missed. If you're sure the problem is the wire. If, however, the root of the problem is the ignition switch, it's going to get worse, and you still haven't solved it, because you haven't fixed the actual problem. Maybe in your case, the wire is broken, and replacing it fixes the problem...

Right. Because (for example) a bad RAM chip NEVER causes OS instability... Unless damaged by something external, the age of wire doesn't matter. The insulation may eventually become brittle, getting cracks, which then start to corrode. Unless there's repeated flexing at a point, the wire...

@Pi: Of course we still have people insisting that they get better light output by using the headlight relay to trigger another relay for positive power to the headlights, and the headlight positive power circuit is as simple as it gets. @JDMMA70: Wire broken internally? You shouldn't need to...

Here's what this "mod" does: Take ALL of the stock wiring, the stock relay and everything that goes with it, and use THAT to trigger yet another relay to deliver power to the starter solenoid... Which is really another relay. Basically it's "I can't be bothered to take the time to figure out...

The important thing is that he's safe and sound (I hope to hear that he is.) Good luck in the search for a decent car for your son.

I believe the later revision was to thread the starter. The top nut for the starter is my least favorite fastener in the entire car. Today, I removed my upper intake manifold in order to replace the coolant hose from the lower manifold to the ISCV, which I damaged while removing the ISCV in...

Well, when I bought my car in 1996, I didn't figure that I was going to need anything more in-depth than a Haynes manual. After all, that was good enough for me to learn to do complete rebuilds of my V8 cars. I figured that I'd pick up one as soon as it was time to do something I couldn't figure...