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Where do you have the boost gauge hooked up at?

Supraguy- Yeah I have no way of seperating the sub harness from the main harness because there is no disconnect point. I was afraid I would have to hack into the harness. I just really dont want to if someone knew of another solution. I'll take a plate as well. PM me your PayPal info.

Just finished reading this entire thread. Holy crap what a design setup! Looks amazing and the knowledge on figuring this all out. Amazing Morganson!! I don't know if anyone else giving this a shot has an engine wiring harness from Tweakd Performance but Tweakd, among other PITA flaws in the...

I never tried cleaning the MAF actually.

I have a major update!!!! I ended up replacing the mass air flow sensor and a coil and the car no longer falls on its face. It boosts up to 8 psi and holds strong through every single gear now. All I can say is WOW!! What a huge difference. It still runs on the rich side, but its a work in...

Why would replacing the AFM not help at all in this situation? I am up for correction if my logic is incorrect, but the computer is seeing 16,000 Hz coming from the AFM, when it should be no more then ~160 Hz, while the TPS is reading no more then 5% open, coolant at normal operating temps, and...

Riyad: That is actually the exact reason I thought I had fuel cut hitting because it sounds just like fuel cut. I have tested the AFM at normal operating temp and I am seeing about 16 kHz at idle on the KS terminal and then 27 mV between terminals Vf and E1. So based on those numbers, I am...

I don't know why I am having a hard time answering the question. I am not getting code 34 at all but I do hit fuel cut around 3500 rpm. I know people mention that they see the cel flash and I never see any of that. The engine is basically building power and the rpms get to the almighty ~3500 rpm...

I should have been more clear. My mistake. I have two codes stored now. Coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensor which is codes 22 and 24 but I unplugged both components while the vehicle was running so I know why those two are stored. I haven't really driven the car since I did that so...

3p: I forgot about your question from earlier. The only code that was stored was code 51 and that's the reason the throttle body came off was so that I could recalibrate the tps because it did need it. Just so the information is out there, I did free air calibrate the wideband per innovate's...

This how I did the procedure last night. I took the positive lead of my meter and put it in the end of the KS terminal. I then took the negative lead and put it on ground. Set the meter to Hz and started the car. Even with the engine cold and running in low rpms, I was seeing between 430 and 700...

Since people seem to like to complain when a simple question is asked, I am researching what the frequency of KS should be while the vehicle is running and under what kind of conditions. Some people have to work for a living and don't have mommy and daddy paying for everything so I haven't been...

For those that dont understand the meaning of update when someone posts update and not pose the question why is it still not working ... I know I have to check more components to figure out what is going on with the motor running hella rich. For the rest that are helping me, I really appreciate...

Just a heads up and as you are slowly learning I'm sure, these cars have a mind of their own. They work great one day and act like it hates life the next.

Here is an update on what I have checked and what the car is doing at the moment. So far I have eliminated the CSI completely other then it being a plug in the intake manifold. I have checked the TPS per the TSRM and it checked out fine after some minor adjustments. I have checked for boost...

I've already got a Fluke as a matter of fact. I have been finding small things that could be causing problems. Once I test the car out I will update on here what I have done.

Unfortunately no. I am holding the stop screw that is in the first picture open. I was figuring the second picture is the stop screw that the tsrm is referring to but I wanted to make sure before I diagnose a part as bad that isn't really bad. For now I am leaving the lex screw alone but I...

Since I am behind on the newest posts I will make another. I have done some investigating on some of my sensors and what I have found so far is the coolant temp sensor that goes to ECU is way out of spec so I am going to pick up another one of them tomorrow. I noticed when I took the throttle...

The vsv I was running is the one that is not rubber isolated and its mount is part of the metal body that surrounds the plastic. At least thats the only way I can tell the difference between them. When I am checking the TPS to make sure it is in spec, which stop do I put the feeler gauge in?

I am guessing that the Lexus screw that 7M is talking about is the screw that is in the AFM housing correct? How the heck does one back that thing out?