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welcome to the club. if there are any parts you are looking for, let me know...I've got a pretty healthy supply. what city are you in? Adam

It took me several hours of thinking and one re-make of my intercooler brackets to allow the oil cooler to fit there. I found those M6X1 threaded holes on the bottom of the rad support to be extremely helpful in the whole ordeal...I used them to mount both the IC and oil cooler.

the amount of space you have depends on the thickness of your IC. Mine is a 3.5" thick core and there was a decent amount of room for the B&M cooler. If you are talking about the hood support/latch, there is usually some cutting required. No modificaton of the bumper support is required.

wow, this has to be one of the most logically worded questions I have seen.... yes, the manifold can crack.

Lots of engines are direct injection these days. More control of combustion and greater efficiency are just a few of the benefits. Quite a bit of research being done on compression ignition gasoline engines too (diesel/otto cycle hybrid).

it seems alignment shops love to try push these things....Probably because they can charge $100 for a $5 bolt. I'd say take the car to the alignment nazi...don't piss around with anything else.

see the last few posts of my build thread (in sig). This should give you a pretty good example

get yourself a more accurate micrometer...

no. 1.15 a/r hotside = lag monster.

oil cooler, intercooler, and filters are finally mounted. Next step is to R&R the engine oil seals, install the new pan (thanks dr.j) and drop the engine in. Pan (wrapped up to keep the dust out)

I can't beleive the amount of mixed, BS responses in this thread. If you have no idea, or even if you aren't 100% sure of your answer, keep it to yourself. It seems most of you guys have no idea who you are talking to...low post count doesn't mean "noob who I can feed BS to"

225/50/16 is stock

if you had a look at the auction you would have seen that it is a buy it now.

it feels better because this technique is essentially the same as double clutching. I also occasionally shift like this.

just for a ballpark figure, my diff cost in the neighborhood of $900 to have re-built.

truckers typically shift without using the clutch because most heavy duty transmissions do not have synchros, requiring double clutching or rev matching anyway. In a car, it is generally pointless unless you are so lazy that it is a chore to move your left foot, and in that case, you may as...

How does this apply to the COP setups (eg. the 2jz ge coils)? Are they grounded through their mounting hole (which is metal lined) or since there is no real "bracket" the issue is moot?

my guess would be wherever the cross-sectional area is the smallest...

run the line from the regulator to the hard line? You should be able to get fittings and use braided stainless line to make this work. I'm using a female end on the stainless line (from the regulator) which inserts into the existing rubber return line and is clamped in place.

that's the condition the "generally" was referring to. however, in the case of something like an exhaust system, a 3" with a 2" restriction will flow more than a straight 2" system. I imagine the same is the case for the PCV as I can't see that air moving all that fast.