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if your problem happens when you are turning sharply, the first thing I'd check is your steering system...but that's just me.

do you still have the part numbers of the bushings (they should be written on the individual bushings) 52271-14020 front inner 52271-14050 front outer 52272-14030 rear hope you've got a press because one of the front bushings is a pretty tight fit. for what its worth, I'm 99% sure the...

rust-free door would be the easiest by far...no messing around with making sure the entire panel is straight. Grab a door, paint it, and you're set.

my dad used to do this as well....with that said, we're building a supra together, so I guess he got over it.

damn people are making a ton off of shipping fees...

I swapped it out with a working one...

what condition is the dashpot in? Mine was sticking and causing a pretty bad high idle.

peddle? must have been rough for some to write without spell check back in the day.

i think this means you will have to upgrade the rest of your engine bay to purple HKS stuff...

sorry, but the 10-15 degree difference resulting from the uneven wrapping is not going to do a damn thing. There's a pretty big temperature difference between the mid point of the runners and the flange attached to the head, and you don't see manifolds spontaneously cracking apart there. His...

3.5 inch...

No. "rusting" occurs due to an oxidation reaction involving water and salt, where a porous scale allows for continued attack of the exposed metal. High temperatures pretty much do away with all moisture, resulting in no rust. High temperature scale on the other hand will occur when a steel...

you pull the clip out...pliers work well...vise grips work better.

a couple of pictures from this weekend. rear panels and subwoofer installed - all thats left back there is to cut the carpet around the sub. (If anybody had a good set of rear interior panels, PLEASE let me know. As you can see, those panels are in horrible shape...I'm almost ashamed of...

not with access to a wholesale account...

that gives me a bit more confidence...the motor is out of the car, and rotating the crank won't be a problem. I really didn't want to disturb the bottom end...

how hard is it to change a set of rims?

sounds like it might be difficult to get an accurate torque on the squirters that way...I guess I'll have to make a gametime decision.

I'm putting together an itinerary for the "refreshment" (new crankshaft seals/oil/coolant gaskets) of my engine this weekend and I had a question about the oil squirters. I know that the TSRM indicates to install them when the crankshaft is out of the engine, however, can they be replaced with...

funny not found, only stupidity on the OP's behalf.