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Well at least you found the issue. IMO step #3 to owning a mkiii, is getting a dd. That way decisions are made with the car in mind, not transportation. The 7m needs lots of lovin, and "quick, get it back on the road" methods dont work here. Sucks to hear another supra is down for a while, but...

The part you are looking for is an air injection check valve. Its just a part that was designed to flow the way you desire. The problem is they are not designed to flow oil vapor (or liquid) so it may get coked up, and flow in an undesirable direction (they fail in stock form and usually only...

Are you serious? Click "next page" in the link I sent you. There is more than one page for everything. And your TPS is junk.

Removing the cables does erase the codes, but those codes get set as soon as the ignition is turned on. So yes it may seem they are not being erased, but as OnaRc4 said, the issue has to go away before those codes will go away. Here is the section of TSRM you were looking for...

IDK where you got that idea, but if you had read my previous post you would have known different.

But why would you want to dyno at a lower boost level, just to turn it back up again afterwards? I am lost.

Yeah, he has got a USDM SC300 2JZ-GE, running on the 2JZ computer. We were able to get the car to purr like a kitten (a very loud, open header kitten) . There were just a few small issues (surprisingly none of them distributor related). All in all it was a good day, another supra is on the road...

I was linked to this and found it funny as hell, enjoy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQRMvg5TAl8

I think the front is a push, they can both look great. The rear of the car is where the +89, hands down looks better.

[/URL] The red circuits are ported vacuum. Ported vacuum flows a small amount (5 inhg max) only with the throttle slightly open. The BOV signal is not included in the illustration, but you should have constant vacuum there, like the rest of the blue lines. The other thing you were concerned...

Where is the 1JZ?

Looks blue to me, if the test was done properly, no BHG.

What was for sale? Its has already been removed from craigslist,

All you need is a 24mm socket, and a way to pump the gear lube up out of the bottle into whatever you are filling. The trans can be filled through the shifter hole (not how it was designed, but it works), but that doesent help with the rear end, and pumps can be had for cheap, so it is a worthy...

Aluminum motors need sleeves, and they are designed to have them. Neither of which apply to the 7m.

This is probably nit picking but you only need 3.2 qts of tranny fluid. The motor takes 5 qts, but should always be 1 qt overfull, so 6 qts is needed. I would definitely drain the fuel (there is a plug in the bottom of the fuel tank) and replace the filter. While your at it change the rear end...

I applaud you for coming to the conclusion that the FCD sucks and is dangerous. If you want to raise the boost semi safely, you need slightly larger injectors, and a tuning device. Then you can turn up the boost whatever % larger the injectors are.

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

Like this, duh. lol

Correct, the 2jz can have two different sets of twins, and the 1jz had a completly different set of twins, or a single. The largest twins are the 2jz USDM twins.