looked exactly the same on engines i worked on, only difference i saw in any oil pan setup was the pickup screen design was changed from 92-93 the newer ones seemed more round and less oval.
edit : everything still bolts up and the N/A pan already has a fitting for oil drain and just needs to...
if it hasnt been changed before it needs to be regardless. i have a 7mge block in my garage that overheated once or twice as its only sign of a BHG and the motor was completely blown melting pistons 2 3 and 4
where can you see the #on the transmission i actually have all of them in my garage right now hehe, one from a 7mge two from 1jz's and two from aristo 2jz's
and moy it would only be easier if you have a mkiii w58 and any n/a JZ bellhousing.. if you really want to use a w58 ;p
what exactly is wrong with your engine? they are the same minus the the oil squirters and oil filter mount which the GE is not coolant cooled iirc. same oil pump
thats why i was wondering why they were low heh, my compression was mid 140's to mid 150's on a used engine.
and the timing is not off? engine has no other sound odd at all when you are around 6400? turbo spins free and nice?
dot 3 or 4 works fine.
a hairline crack will put air into the system (like a straw) i would check every line and every pad. ive seen air get into ABS systems as well. if a new master cyl is too much buy a rebuild kit.
i wouldnt say evap is useless or unnecessary crap, do what j3pz said.
for my turbo car i removed the boost gauge sensor (and if you can get a hold of a 7mge volt gauge +2!)
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