Nothing really. Just your ignition timing. You do a few extra degrees of advance with the higest octaine gas you can get. Do it on a dyno though! Don't just advance and hope you made more power.
If you buy something like an SAFC, then you can fine tune your fuel curve. I seriously doubt you...
If you are rebuilding the motor anyway, get your compression from the pistions. Shaving the block and head is par for the course, but is not going to net you any siginifigant gains in HP by its self.
Adjustible cam gears won't do much on the stock cams, wait and throw them on at the same time...
Those are good tires but any of the tires I listed will drive circles around ES100s. Those are performance street tires and not ultra high grip, max performance tire.
BFGoodwrich G-force T/A KD
Toyo Proxies RA-1
Bridgestone RE-01R
Falken RT-615
Kuhmo MX
Toyo Proxies T1R
Cartel1; what Proxies? There are a bunch of different ones. I have only tried the Proxies 4 and they where THE CRAPPIEST tire I have EVER run. OMG I hated them so much
Werd. Its also about how you drive. Tire X could last a 500hp car twice as long as a tire Y on a 125hp car because the guy in the lower hp car drives nuts everywhere.
The good Coopers are expensive, the 2XS. I get mine through tiresavings.com and the 235/40/17s I run are $103 a tire. Reasonable, but it adds up! Shipping is expensive too. St-115s and ES100s are about the same price, but you can get them anywhere.
Coopers are not that well known at this...
I have used both Falken 512s and Kuhmo 712s. They are high mileage all season tires with a "sporty" edge. Good for what they are, not so good for an enthusiast.
I only recommend one Cooper tire, because its all that I have tried. The Zeon 2XS performance tire. More grip than the St-115s or...
Thats what I am doing. Just keep an eye on the classifieds for a cheap genric intake tube off any old car. All you need is that nice 45 degree bend, the pipe after that hardly matters. Look around and you can find the pipe for $10-20. Filter on a stick. Done.
This canaster gismo is attached to the butterfly inside the manifold and the FPR.
htp://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_50.html
I have been through pages and pages of the manual and I can't figure out if that canaster gets its vaccum pre or post throttle body. Does it matter?
Thanks
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.