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I seem to have mis-spoken a bit - I checked my records, and I'm only on my 2nd set of paint; I painted it before installation, which I had forgotten - that was the first paint job. A few pics :) 1st paint job, after 25 1/2 months & 39k miles: 2nd paint job, 0 miles :) :

I've got the Cooleeze test pipe & catback, with a Borla xr1 muffler. Been on the car about 21 months & closing in on 45k miles. Been very pleased w/ both overall. Only problems I've had: the hangers on the test pipe don't line up well w/ my trans (I'm using the w58 though) - the catback...

Yeah, been okay, mostly. Between school, having to find a new job, & insane gas prices, no too bad, I suppose ;). Actually, upgrading to 4.80 eliminated the stumble I was getting. I couln't get rid of it at all w/ 4.40, no matter what I tried, but it seems good now. If I get time tomorrow, I...

I finally got mine installed & working over the weekend - took about 3-4 hours total, plus about an hour or so more, tinkering with some of the settings to get it close to how it ran before (I'm using speed density mode). Used version 4.40, but I flashed it to 4.80 tonight. Like others have...

Towards the end of this past winter, I developed a similar problem, but it was somewhat erratic at first. It started with the heater taking longer and longer to come on (set in auto mode), until finally it would not blow hot air at all. The valve on the firewall works perfectly, if it is...

I've got just over 41k on my Spec stg. 3 (6-puck ceramic), no problems with it at all, other than a little chatter if I don't give it enough rpms when pulling out. Can't compare it to stock, since this is the only clutch I've had in the car; of course, my experiences may be of little use, as I...

Pulling out is fine, the hard part is doing it without the clutch squealing :) - usually between 1700-2000 rpms works well for me. I can pull out as low as ~1100 rpms, with the clutch complaining. But, you may want to look at the stage 3+, it's a full-face disc, and I've heard it will hold a...

I've got the Spec stage 3, also from Horsepowerfreaks - don't remember right off the torque rating though. It's a 6-puck, and takes some getting used to - but I've had it in my DD for over 41k, and I've been very pleased with it.

Gas consumption is not that bad - I get 20-21mpg normal driving, & ~24mpg on the highway. Definately get the Walbro in if you've got some mods - I blew a (fairly new) head gasket out from detonation, by not being able to flow enough fuel at the boost I was running. Boost will not come up as...

Those are the ones I got. And for the price, I can replace them 4 (or more) times before they match the cost of the OEM units.

~$130 (EACH!) or so when I checked a few days ago at the local dealer - he said he could let me have them for ~$85 each though :stickpoke . According to him, it's not just Supra hood shocks, they're expensive for pretty much all Toyotas. I bought mine from AutoZone, $19.99 ea. iirc, and work...

oddly enough, it's worked perfect the last two resets. But, as soon as I can get a spare, I'll dig into it and find out what's going on.

Well, I've got one mount hole half gone, with an over-large washer to compensate; one is completely gone, with a black zip-tie clamped under the rad. mount (this side was cracked when I bought the shroud - tried glue, epoxy, etc., but when the fan clutch locked up....); but, I also have the two...

that does sound pretty bad. mine has a couple spots like that, mostly the upper mounting holes (both of which are broken, actually) - but mine is nearly 20 years old. Given Toyota's generally high quality level for most things, I would suspect storage issues by the dealer/warehouse to have...

Have you checked that your fan clutch isn't locked up? That is what caused my shroud to break, at high RPM it just ripped it right off the radiator. New clutch fixed the problem. (or rebuild the original, may be less expensive)

it also has the 3.0 GT Limited badge - the trim/lights/wing may have been changed. Looks like he sells a lot of Supra parts as well - I wonder if he's on any of the forums?

That's probably what I'll end up doing sometime this coming week, but it's always handy to know as much as I can about what I'll be getting into ;)

It'd be cheaper just to replace the headgasket on the engine you've got. The last time I did mine (a little over a year and 22k miles ago, at ~15 psi), I did it for under $200 (Fel-Pro OEM style gasket, ARP bolts), and in an afternoon. Pulling & reinstalling the head are the hardest parts...

does anyone know if there is a way to repair the reset function for the trip meter? The meter itself works fine, it's just become a real pain in the a$$ to reset it lately, like there are some teeth broken off the wheels or something. Sometimes it will catch and reset on first try, most times...

:yelrotflm - I generally put that much on in a week.... 162,xxx miles on the odometer, ~70k-80k on the engine. I've put almost 39k on in the last 25 months, now on my 3rd set of tires....and second HG ;).