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trans-to-motor brackets? please elaborate

I still don't understand the whole long extension deal, doesnt seem like theres anywhere for them to go? broken wrench? please explain. also, only 4 bolts holding the bell housing into the block?

I've searched through just about every thread related to changing the clutch and removing the tranny. But I still have had no success in getting the tranny off the motor. First of, how many bolts are on the bell housing? I have 4 off so far... I have found a 5th bolt way up on the top on...

me...miller high life...its cheap, i'm pissed off...not a good combo! wooop

ahh nice find. I love the saabs lines. Totally different than anything on the market. and, i might be off, but that seems pretty cheap too?

It could also be possible that when you had them off, small peices of the old gasket were left on the covers? Did you scrape of the touching surfaces On both the head and the covers? If not, this could be causing a small leak somewheres

a good baseline number for the 60-1 CT with supporting mods (exhaust *duh*, air/fuel) is around 325-350ish Before I bought my 60-1 ct, I did some reading up and the majority of the graphs were around those numbers. Conservative tune, suitable for DD. You can squeeze a decent amount more...

well, post pics when your done! I want to see the final 7m-FFIM-batterysameplace job

If your going to be wiring up two batteries, and go through the trouble of fitting those in the front, why don't you just re-located the single normal sized battery? Not only will it make your life easier from the FFIM stand-point, it will also releive some of the clutter of your engine bay

ahh poo...yes, today it finally started slipping more. No highway driving now, just for sure slippage... I'm going to baby it along as much as I can. No money for a clutch just yet... :( I think i'm going to be going with the stock setup from CKanderson with the 6 puck disc

nobody?

I just recently drove to Tallahassee from tampa, about a 5 hour trip. Not driving fast, just cruising at about 2800-3000 RPMs. 5th gear, ease onto the throttle to pass and the clutch slips badly. So, continued cruising to tally being carefull not to get on the car hard. But for sure the clutch...

I had a similar thing happen to me, it ended up being a faulty valve cover far back near the #6 plug, and as a result of the angle of the motor, the oil just pooled down in the galley near #6 New valve covers and gaskets fixed everything. Hope if anything this gives you and idea!

Just an update for anyone searching around It has been many months since my install of the Intrax springs, and if you've read the thread I was complaining earlier about the front sitting higher. Figured I would wait a while for "settling" and after all this time the front still sits higher.

The thickness of your headgasket...if you wan't it done well, should depend on how much gets taken off your head. Which you NEED to get done! Based on how much needs to be taken off your head to smooth it out, you should then find the best match HG. as for the block, it shouldn't be a huge...

How much boost your running has nothing to do with your idle :) If your boosting 8 pounds at idle...your a genius

a cracked accordian hose is not a good thing. although no boost leaks, your letting in A. Un-metered air, and B. Un-filtered air, which can lead to the death of your turbo and yes, the small vacuum line on the bottom of the hose is the power steering idle line.

wow, well, you've got several options here A.) go online, pole around and then buy the harness that makes it a plug-n-play 5 minute job. B.) do it the hard way and hardwire that junk in. which would help if you went to greddy's website, or search around the net for where all the wires are...

Only ever used the click type here. Just always seems to make the job easy!

try tighetning up the BOV spring then...Couldn't hurt