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My old car did, but in the front. It was from a bent frame. If the above advice doesn't work then examine the frame rails, measure there distance apart.

Agreed. All LSx engines are incredible. But your right, it looks like an import mag list.

Yes I realize that and I was refering to this: "built 13b's (upgraded apex seals) blow with less than 20k all the time!" If you are blowing them on a built motor you can not tune. Rotaries are very picky when it comes to fuel, especially when they are upwards of 10000rpm. A good buddy...

Yes, fix it properly and be done with it. You should never blow one twice if you fixed it right the first time.

13B-REW Mazda Rx7 - Great engine 2JZ-GTE Toyota Supra - Amazing engine 3S-GTE Toyota All-Trac Celica, MR2 - Amazing engine 4G63 Mitsubishi eclipse, Evolution - Great engine B16/B18 Acura Integra,Honda Si - Great engine D16 Honda Civic, CRX- Moderate... EJ20 Subaru WRX - Great engine...

Then they dont know how to tune....Rotories are just as bullet proof as any other engine when built correctly. Blowing apex seals are a myth.

3sgte = the 2jz of 4 cylinders.

^ Su = 45ksi/310MPa Nothing really exceptional in the land of metals (your weakest carbon steel is stronger than it), but for an Aluminum that is high. But it is all in the design...

Yea ductility is good, to a point. I was always under the impression that chromoly is lighter, but upon looking it up it has the same density as your average 1020 steel. Interesting. Personally I have not welded chromoly but have been told by one of my technologists that it is harder to...

$26us to ship to canada :aigo: What a rip. I would make my own using black wires...That is to flashy. It will probably require some customizing on the lengths as well.

Yea that is why I was asking. Typically Aluminum is way to ductile for something of this nature, some being in the 30% elongation area, not something you want. Chromoly would definetly be ideal. Compared to carbon steel it is stronger, lighter, and corrosion resistant. Just harder to weld...

Just curious what alloy/temper the aluminum arms are? I am assuming 6061-T6? It would be the only one fitting, most others are very weak... and or the steel ones? Carbon or stainless? what grade?

that is going to be A LOT harder to fabricate. Planning on welding it to the a/b pillars?? Edit: it will also make removing the bolts for the targa a pain in the ass if the brace is there all the time.

You wouldn't need it with the targa on so that won't be an issue... Take the targa off and put the X-brace on. It is really simple to make, two pieces of tubing, cut to length in an X pattern with mounts made to bolt into the stock targa mount locations... Unless you are reffering to an...

You will still have to replace your bushings on the stock arms going with Randy's version. And on that subject have you noticed any difference with your modded ones? I was planning on doing the same to mine.

Doooooooooo it!

catia > microstation :) I use all the CAD software for free because of school... Solid works, solid edge, catia, inventor, autocad, mastercam lathe/mill, 3ds max, maya, ect. Great skill to have.

Was it done on MasterCAM?

I have a GT40 and a friend (mark that came and visited you last summer) has a pte67. If he ever gets his car running we will line up and see what turbo is better. :naughty: