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"I never understood why people would want to let others know how much they have put into their car" Why not? It means nothing anyway. No matter what, you gotta pay to play.

Bought my 92 with lots of mods for $14k over 4 years ago. And I have spent about $7700 on it since then. So 14K +7.7k = $21,700.00 Still less than a new car payment..

I also forgot to mention that the track was very cold, so I consider my self lucky to even get a 1.8 60ft. Either way I'm confident, that as soon as I figure out this boost leak, high 11's at 120+mph shouldn't be a problem. I'm not sure what my spring rates are. They are Eiback progressive...

With a healthy engine you should be able to put down 500+rwhp easily. Don't forget to fill it up with rice gas.

I am running ARP head bolts. I am running dragradials-BFG 255\50\16. I don't think 1.8 60ft is too bad, but I could probably pull off a 1.7 with a little practice. 12.8 @ 105 is pretty good. Of coarse the ct-26 will give you better low rpm torque for easier launches.

Yes.. If you don't want the power to drop off at high RPM, get rid of the CT-26 completely. Like the Dr said, the tiny CT-26 turbine side will choke the flow at high rpm no matter what compressor wheel you use. A simple bolt-on turbo like the SP61GT, Bossturbo or any other T4 turbo will allow...

Thanks. I think my new BOV might be leaking at high boost. If thats the case, I will just throw my old Greddy R bov back on and head back to the track in the Spring. Yeah the turbo is a 61mm, but my engine is a little low on compression on #4 cylinder. So the turbo should make a bit more...

The CT-26.

Whatever DR J. There's tons of info on the SF dyno-tuning section- for the non-believers. And when you here testimonials from the users of BB turbos backed by dyno graphs time and time again, you start to believe in the advantage. Or you could believe the turbo manufacturers who do not offer a...

I recently talked to a guy who owns a MK4 with a T67DBB (.68A/R). I know he owned a T67 non-BB (.68A/R) before. Anyway, I asked him if he notices a slight difference in spool-up switching from the non-BB to the BB. He said no, there is much more than a slight difference in spool-up.

"The current record is 1018rwhp on a stock block 2j, and just in case there is any question as to my preferance in motors 2j FTW" Yeah thats pretty incredible. But any one who knows anything about those motors will tell you that you are pushing your luck above 750rwhp. Of coarse a 3.0 liter...

I only had the top nipple hooked up on my Greddy Type R. You can adjust the spring tension by loosening nut on the top and turning the bolt with an allen wrench.

"MRSUPRA gave pretty decent pricing on the 7M part but then top dollar on the 2J spending." I was saying you could do it for $3k if you really wanted to. But in my case and many others its probably closer to $5-6k with new quality parts.

"But BPU on a 2JZ will probably bring you to at least if not more than 400rwhp." In most cases, not on pump gas. The 2JZ ECU loves to pull timing on pump gas when the tiny twins start blowing hot air.

Yeah its a very loose term. And most MK4 owners use brand name performance parts. Don't forget the BCC. I can see BPU costing as low as $1k, but I can't imagine what junkyard parts are used to get 400rwhp on $500.

"I dont plan on robbing the local performance shop. Please show me your parts and costs to how you only spent $3000 for a reliable 'over 400whp' 7m" Cometic metal headgasket=$120 ARP headbolts=$99 Installed properly on a good engine, that will give you a bullet proof 400+RWHP capable...

"the BIG difference comes in the head design....which won't matter unless you're going for a gazillion HP" Actually the head design in the 2JZ is not that great also. Most heads from Honda, Nissan, and Mitsubishi are much higher flowing than the 2JZ head.

"How does u not need to be fully built? stock pistons, rods, fuel, intercooler, oil pump, etc will not handle 400whp on a 7m for long" "It will cost about $8500 for a fully built 7m swap." Drumminforev, please stop with the mis-information. I have been running over 3 years with over...

The HPF turbo kits (like mine) angles the turbo. This allows you to run a big compressor housing without it hitting any of the runners. Lucky the kit already has a 3.5 inch downpipe, which looks like it was a pain to build.

"does anyone actually have a cheapo one of these working right?" My $65 Greddy type RS replica works very nicely. The build quality looked pretty good when comparing to my (real) Greddy Type R.