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Im going to just make a small spacer to get this damn thing on, so I start mocking things up only to find my damn gasket is ass-backwards!!! I can't seem to catch a break on this 'PLUG AND PLAY' kit. Divided holes match up, bolt holes don't Uhh...... wtf! I know its an 'affordable' kit...

I run a test pipe but still have the resonator... Every time I get under there and see how mangled it is I want to cut it out and have straight pipe put in. Does yours sound raspy? How loud is it at idle? I know its going to be loud at WOT so I don't care about that... I just don't want...

Its a journal bearing turbo. I'm thinking that grinding or getting a spacer are my options now. I've got a 45* that I put on the fitting, but it doesn't clear the mani and elbow.

No sir. The elbow that's welded on is flush on the front and sticks out on the back and prevents me from using the line that came with it. If I clocked it the other way itd go thru the mani. I don't want to grind it but might have to. Its just frustrating because this was supposed to be plug and...

I've got the superdragger and my buddy has the hyper medallion... I like how his sounds btr, but I got mine for free, so that solved that for me lol. Look up supraracer01 on youtube for his vids.

I clocked the chra even more, its at an angle I'm unsure of...the fitting comes off the turbo, goes to a 90*, then to another 90*. The fitting actually goes UP some. Do you think this will cause significant issues, or should be ok to run? UP

Can't do the compressor, if it goes any more in either direction its either on the strut tower or resting on the mani. If I do the CHRA, its already not a 90* as it is, it'll be closer to a 45...

As you can see, it is what it is. Im prob going to cut the nut off the one side and just weld the 2 pipes together. This is a HUGE pain in the ass because I've been trying to get the car going asap

Its not going to be run like that, I kinda just threw it up there so it would be ruled out. I'm not risking everything on a halfass job.

I've talked to Aaron, he's sent me a pic of it on the kit on a car, but Im for the life of me not finding a way to make this fit. The elbow on the turbo is welded way off to one side, which could be causing it, but nonetheless, its still an issue for me.

Just route it anywhere u wnt it. Look on SF at the ultimate jz engine thread, you'll have plenty of hood shots.

Any luck?

I run a Blitz ecu, no fuel cut :D

I've got the driftmotion 67 kit thats going on my car. The oil return line on this kit will not work with my car, so I need some help. The kit comes w/ some fittings to re-route the line so it clears the manifold... but there isn't enough room to fit the fitting thru, clear the turbo elbow...

Good luck on the swap! I also vote for LSx but you still can't go wrong with a 1jz.

You need to T off both turbos. When u crank the boost its a world of diff! I daily drove 18 psi for over a year. Fuel cut will be very violent and suck ass.

Use the 2j ps line

NGK 6097s @ .028'' and you'll run like a champ.

I know for a fact that fpr is good, the only reason I took it off was cuz I bought thr DM afpr kit. I needed it for my 550s, pr had to go down bc it was breaking up.

Fwiw, I've run red toyota, green brand name, green generic, straight water, you name it... On my 1j and have nvr had any probs. Just find one u like and stick with it. I'm not a hardcore toyota fanboi tho, just practical.