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Good, Im glad you figured it out. The belt really shouldn't skip teeth unless the tensioner was loose or the belt was really worn out. Take the belt off and turn the camshafts by hand (or with a socket wrench) to make sure they turn normally. Also check the oil pump driveshaft to make sure it...

Have you driven the car on the road? Does the power feel normal? Recheck your timing. Its probably way retarded.

First a little background: I have a voltmeter in the dash from a non turbo supra and it always indicated about 12.5 volts even when the battery was charging at 14.2, so I decided to figure out why. I was also experiencing an intermittent click/ no start situation. Upon performing a voltage...

not mine

so. awesome.

Finally finished my ar15

Yea I actually have a logic probe at work but honestly I thought this was going to be an easy fix and didn't bother bringing it home.

Thanks for the help, I will definitely do that igniter check. That does not verify that there is and IGf coming out of the igniter though, right? The chances of having bad pickups in 2 different distributors are pretty slim, but I have seen stranger things.

Ah, wish I would have known that before I left! Well I just got back from messing with the car for another couple of hours. All I really found out is that I still need a scope to properly diagnose this one. The coil/igniter, ECU, and distributor he got are all ebay parts so I am assuming...

Hey JJ, thanks for your compliments:icon_bigg Yep we did check the power side of the circuit, we have battery voltage to the igniter and ignition coil when cranking. Im going to head back over to his house now and see if I can come up with anything, thanks for your guys help

Okay we just verified that the cam timing is all correct and the ignition timing is where it should be. I am going to try and find someone who has a DSO I can borrow to find out what is missing here. Im thinking we may have got a bad replacement ignitor.

Yep, thats how we verified that the mark on the crank pulley was still valid. I will have him check it again just to verify.

Yep, grounds are good. Dropping .1volts when cranking from the battery to the grounds at the ECU. As far as the cam timing goes, the cams are in their center pins and pointing straight up when the crank pulley is on the 0 mark. Then the distributor is put in per the TSRM instructions.

The little plastic side lip used to snap in to the bracket about 25 years ago, but now that its petrified it wont stay in place to put the ring around it. Getting new plastic clips might help.

Yes it does, and when cranking the tach flutters just a little bit ---------- Post added at 12:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 PM ---------- And, I forgot to mention that he has tried another ECU and it does the same thing

I am helping a friend get his car running that he just purchased midway through a HG job. He has already replaced the ignitor/coil assembly, the distributor, all plugs, wires, cap and rotor. We have fuel pressure, but it seems the spark is what we are missing. It wont start on ether. We...

Is there any way that there could still be some air trapped in there? I had mine do the same thing, it was a new southbend clutch and I had the exact same symptoms. I bled the heck out of it and finally the throw got a little further, enough to fully disengage it.

The Ti is the one you want. I use it every day at work, drop it all the time, never oil it, takes off truck lug nuts torqued to 550ft/lbs no problem. Very dependable and powerful.

When I pulled my motor apart there was a valve cover screw bolt in my oil pan. I never lost one so it must have been from the previous owner. Drove like that for 30K miles

What throttle body/TPS are you using with your FFIM? The code 51 means that your idle contacts in the TPS are not closed when you tried to run the diagnostic. If you are using the stock TPS you should have a ground on the yellow/blue wire coming out of pin 3 of the TPS when the throttle is...