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Yep, we still have a few supra owners lurking around tucson. I just got mine running again so keep an eye out for me!

High Hydrocarbons are from raw unburnt fuel in the exhaust. I would verify the integrity of the ignition system first. Edit: Sorry, Just read that you had checked your spark plugs and your entire ignition system already. Its possible that you could be getting a lean misfire, make sure all...

I thought it had to be something other than steel?

yea thats not even pipe thread at all. its just standard thread

what about stainless steel? http://shop.hoseandfittings.com/catalog/Fitting/Stainless_Steel/Metric_-_British/MJ-MBSPT/4011-06-04-SS.html

Cool thanks for the info. What kind of oil pressure does the 1jz typically have at higher RPM?

So as we know the Holsets need a restrictor due to the oil pressure being too high for these turbos What size restrictor are you guys using on the holset turbos? The ball bearing turbos need a restrictor about .035", and I have seen restrictors for journal bearing turbos anywhere from .065"...

Really sounds like timing not advancing enough, or maybe getting pulled for some reason. Have you tested the water temp sensor? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=113

Well I went for a 20 mile drive closely following the break in procedure and the engine felt really strong, sounded good and didn't give a hint of trouble. I stopped halfway through and just listened for any unusual noise. Didn't hear anything weird. When I got home I pulled into my...

Youre the man IJ, Well im going to go break this sucker in now, wish me luck!

Wow, when I depressed the clutch the noise went away. When I let it out, It was gone. I let it run for a couple more minutes and gave it a couple of small revs and it did not come back. The only other thing, is that It has been about an hour and a half since I last ran it, so maybe it is...

Just looked at the cams, everything looks oily and like it should. I have in my notes that my thrust clearance with new bearings was .0040. .0020 to .0098 is spec manual

I can see plenty oil in under the oil cap but ill take them off and have a look anyway.

Yes, brand new toyota one with a new spring. Also a new toyota belt. Oil pump drive shaft bearings were replaced and clearanced properly too. Sometimes forged pistons will slap when cold, but that wouldnt sound like that would it?

I just got my freshly built engine started up for the first time. It started right up on the first crank, no leaks, purred like a kitten. Then right before I was about to go break it in I start hearing this noise, sounds like something squeaking in the engine. So I figure its an accessory or...

Cool thanks for the insight, I know I am just being too cautious. I had even considered pressurizing the wastegate with a small air tank and driving around like that so I could really hammer the throttle down, and not worry about it boosting too much. :aigo:

Driving it like an old grandma would be the opposite of this procedure: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Have you read it?

I am finally ready to start up my rebuilt engine and I just want to run some questions by you guys that I am not 100% on. I have read the "Proper engine break in oil" sticky in the lubricants section, and I am planning on using the break it in hard method described here...

what he said

I plan on using that same electric pump. Under testing I found that it flows a crap load (exact measurement) of air, and pulls approx 7 inches of vacuum when the intake is blocked off. From what I have read, that is perfect vacuum for a crankcase. The only problem that I have found is that...