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I vote to lock this thread since there has been several threads started about this in just the past week. It is obvious that the rookie dose not know how to use the search, or how to open a thread. As for the answer to your question, yes you should.

Just fabricate your ffim to fit around the alternator in it's OEM location. This way no need to drop the alternator, or remove A/C. As for vacuum lines, just use a vacuum block, with a 3/8" feed to it.

pics. of car and parts?

Look in the yellow pages, or do a google search for one.

Not that expensive, around here dyno time is 80-100 bucks a hour. So for less them 200 you can have PROVEN #'s that show what set of cams are better. How to do it, LOL> Enter dyno with one of the sets of cams already one the car. Take a pull, and get the #'s. Then swap cams on dyno...

One hell of a swap there you have there Luke. As for a shift knob, try and find a CTS- V knob. If feels and looks really nice ;) (no you can't have mine)

way to much work, what are you talking about. A cam swap takes less then a hour from start to finish. Call a dyno shop and ask them what they would charge you so you can test the two cams, with you doing the labor on the cam swap and timing them in. This is the best way to see what cams are...

That old exhaust is SICK. I wouldn't rock it but it just looks sick. Put it back on!

looks to be 3H1 http://www.toyotareference.com/ is your friend. page down tell you find supra ;)

I do some where. But I just searched my memorie card and those pics are not on it. This means it is on another SD card that is somewhere, let me do some searching for it. EDIT: I found the card and no pic of the bottom:( I only took pics of the runners) This is the only pic I have that...

Dam Brent, you got skills, major skills. Prototype looks killer.

R154 (bare unit- no bell housing oil or shifter) weights 99 lbs according to the supra weight index add 23 for the clutch, 5 lbs for Inspection Cover, bolts, fork, ext. and what ever the bell housing weights. So looking at a total around 130 lbs.

If you are swap/ installing a new 7m into you poopra just make sure to install the EGR(exhaust gas recirculation) stuff, and also the throttle body onto your new motor from your old. Then your JDM will turn into a USDM motor, lol. This is what the EGR is...

The two plugs on my R154, one for reverse switch, and one for (what I thought) was neutral switch. But reading the TRSM yes, you are correct it a rear speed connector (w/ A.B.S.) not a neutral switch. To answer the original question again, it is still yes, you can swap/switch the R154 from...

Wow, that is a crazy find with only 9.9 miles on it and never tilted. $100k sounds about right since used ones were going for $40k or so. 547 total built.

suprarich, spiracingmailorder.com is who I got mine from, :evil2:272's:evil2: Send him a pm and ask if he has them in stock. Do a google search I have seen quite a bit of people/shops selling them now days. There is also some companies on ebay selling them, something like poorboy racing.

Talk about having a MAJOR vacuum leak with no block off plates or EGR in place. Get the EGR reinstalled and go from there.

Sorry right now I dont have access to photobucket right now. But I have pics of mine posted in my thread. post #6 or 7 IIRC http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74301

Get a engine hoist and just put it in your self. It takes a rookie no more then a weekend to do it. Everything is plug n' play.

Try reading this.http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423 Also what is up with your puncuation?