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Ever see the movie "Waiting"? I swear that sounds just like a scene in that movie, right down to the bill, tip, and everything!

Here's the stock ECU as it sits in the dash. Here's a stock ECU out of the car, with the mounts attached. Hope that helps....

I have my glove box out, and can take some pics of my 7M ECU (installed) after work tonight....

I purchased a GTE off another forum member on here which came missing it's EGR, and in it's place it has block off plates. After reading up on the EGR on this forum, I also purchased an EGR from another member to put back on the engine. Now I just got to find the time to do it........

^^^ Ya, that my car screws me more and more; and I'm getting accustomed to it. :D

I figured that, after reading your post. ;) If my car was hiding one of those, I'm sure it wouldn't be that small IJ; my car tends to do things on a much larger scale; so I'm sure it'd look something more like this.........

Cool. Thanks, JJ.

My heater (blower) motor isn't working, so I took my glove box out to start troubleshooting; and I came across this blue plug with the wires spiced and capped off. Anyone know what this is for? It's in the left hand corner just under the ECU.

^^^ Nonsense! There's guys out there who are running eleventy billion PSI of boost on their stock CT-26, and still haven't blown their stock head gasket. Crank up the boost as high as you can, and have fun! It's a Supra. It can take it!

1. Search this forum. Back pressure isn't necessary. 2. Even if it was necessary, don't you think that big ass thing hanging off the manifold would provide plenty of it?

Thanks for posting the results of your problem, as I think my swap has the same symptoms. I just got my GTE running, and pressure looked good until the engine warmed up. Once warm, my oil pressure slowly started dropping, and I noticed that my oil cooler was very warm to the touch. Oil was...

I just repaired a messed up harness in my car. Believe me, it's not much fun at all. I'm not sure about the first two pics, but I think I can assist with the last three. This appears to be a factory splice. Notice that the wires coming off from the splice are the same colors as the main...

Thanks.

Thanks, figgie, that's what I needed to know. So once the electronics don't test out, then they're dead, right? Looks like I'm looking for a new one in the sale section. :) EDIT: Is there any difference in the AFM between a pre '89 and post '89? I assume that any year of AFM will work, correct?

There's no way to clean off the electronics inside the AFM housing? Great! :( The guy I got the GTE from has a K&N filter hanging off the AFM housing, and I can see oil residue completely coating the inside of the AFM. Once running, my first priority is getting rid of that K&N and getting a...

Thanks for posting this. I have a code 31, and my AFM passes the resistance test per the TSRM; but it completely fails this test. My Hz reading was 4.05. I'll try cleaning the AFM, but I suspect I'll be replacing that soon.

THE CAR RUNS!!! The connector going to the coil had two lose wires that I didn't notice before. I replaced that connector, and it fired right up. All I have now is just the code 22 & a code 31 to deal with, and all of the problems are solved. Thanks to everyone who chimed in, and helped out.

Anybody????

^^^ No security light, and everything on the dash lights up as it should. The tach jumps while cranking, and I can hear the fuel pump (Walbro) working as it should. Everything seems to be working as expected, but for some reason the ECU refuses to inject fuel into the engine.

UPDATE!!! The car still hasn't started as of yet. My symptom now is, when cranking the engine, the injectors pulse twice then stop; indicating a loss (or no) Igf signal. In the past two months, I've: replaced the igniter, repaired the engine wire harness, and also replaced the ECU with...