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1jz swap with r154, one piece driveshaft, FMIC, custom extended harness (935 motorsports, or pm Dr tweak) and you'll be more than happy... and then a big single if you want, with a piggyback or standalone

whats different about the locks?? do you have pics?

i have an 88 lock assembly

in my opinion, the price for 2j's is way to high for what it is: basically a 1j with an extra .5L of displacement over 6 cylinders, and a slightly different turbo setup. for the 1j, that .5L difference means a shorter throw=higher 'safe' redline and the parallel turbo's are awesome! just...

i'd rather just have the c battery...

is it just the idle that is affected?? will it boost normally when cold? i would check wiring to all plugs on/near intake manifold for possible shorting, etc. or park it in a garage or just cover it. if you can't find the problem, don't let it happen??...maybe

i've always wondered about the waterfall noise in my 7mge...

i was wondering from the pics if you had already taken the seals out...but they were never there! it happens...

is it squirting out "some oily liquid shit", or is it gas??

drain the engine oil, and flip the car upside down..that should get the oil out :sarcasm: shop towels and a turkey baster sounds good to me. and to get the last residue out, some brake cleaner with more shop towels should work...

por15 is awesome...what is the black rubber paint?? does it adhere well enough to the gloss black? i have had problems with other paint sticking to the por15

spun bearing doesn't sound too nice...were you aware of this before you bought it??

pliers or a small pick...

the stock twins spool up awesomely fast, I love my 1jz...i just wish it kept boosting (stock setup) past 11psi after about 5k..it feels like it needs more power on the upper end up to 7k. besides that, which a piggyback would fix, i like my 1jz parallel setup better than a 2jz sequential!

does yours use a maf or map sensor?

that works fine, just make sure you have it set up right first!! i'm sure you don't want a breaker bar flipping around the wrong way and stopping when it finds something to destroy, just because you didn't think enough about the rotation of the crank...i've heard of it happening, and its not...

one up the "1.5 jz from the start" that way your block is ready for the mk4 chassis. i'm an r154 guy, but have heard good things about tt's with an auto...better accelleration in some cases. so if you can get over the fact that it would be an auto, stick with that trans to keep your original...

that should work just fine i think

pm Dr Tweak about the custom harness, he can make you one out of your stock MK3 harness, and a 1jz donor harness for muuuuuuch cheaper than 935 motorsports sells theirs (no donor harnesses necessary from 935 tho. i think?) good luck

my two cents... go new shortblock route. a "new" (properly running) bottom end gets you back to 'bulletproof from factory' in my opinion... so i guess it depends on how much power you want out of it, if a rebuild with upgraded parts will be needed in the future, etc.