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Machine shops don't change seals on running motors, garages do. I never liked the rope trick. You are putting contamination directly into the cylinder bore and always run the risk of leaving something behind. I prefer air, but then again, I prefer to remove the head and do a complete valve job.

AWD Astro Van.

Thanks Mike, glad to hear everything is working well. Did you get her tuned? What kind of power are you running now? Everything is good here so far, son is coming home in a few weeks, so fingers crossed. VP import, or at times, the equivalent in Malta.

I am now checking all my boxes of dura bonds. That one box seems to be an isolated incident. All my other boxes are good.

I will forward those to you on your email. Might have to do several emails to get them all. I thought I sent those once already, but maybe I put too many on one email. Thanks for the kind words Gary. I don't get too many of those.

usually a cog type pulley is used with the electric motor with a thin short cog belt.

That I believe was for the 2jz. Steve, as I told you on the phone. There are a few in line water pumps, but you can also use a small 12v electric motor to turn your oem pump with a small belt.

Hey Steve, thanks for the link in my email. Looks real good so far. I have made girdles before for the billet mains, here are pics of the one I made for the malta dragster

I have 3 or 4. All 80's vintage. Armor Attack, Star Castle, Bosconian. They need work more than any supra I have owned. Working on the bosconian now, needs a new flyback and keeps getting stuck in test mode. The can be a night mare to work on. I will post some pics. You can buy what is called...

One of my arcade games is acting up. I am needing to get inside of it and try and fiqure whats going on with that early 80's electronics. Not looking forward to this.

I would still bag everything and wait until later. Save everything until you can assemble it all at once, wash everything, assemble it.

updates?

The simple answer is to not assemble the motor at all. Wait for when you are able to do all the work at once.

Just for future reference, the current OEM Toyota head gasket is 1.5 ish mm thick. So you guys need to factor into the equation what the current thickness is and not the the thickness used many years ago.

Most any dry sump set up will need to be custom made directly into the specific car it is intended for. The pan is custom, all the plumbing will have to be made, the drive system will have to be created also. One company at one time had a dry sump pump mount made for the 2jz, but that may not...

Thanks for that Nick! Mibrum Racing's mk3 - GT45 last I knew, fully forged motor, GM PG trans, Mini tub link to a 6.98@193 for the rail car http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ-bNAl6CCg&feature=related Mibrum Racing 7mgte dragster - Mods are too long to list but is a GT4788 turbo, tec3r, SIP...

Mibrums time in the "other" class is an old time. Should be 6.95 @ 193 now. Their other car is a 7mgte powered mkIII car that ran well into the 8's, I would have to dig a little for that time, but it should have the #1 spot.

Hey Nick. I still have that block in the same foot locker you sent it to me in. We are saving that block for when we run out of re-builds on the block we have in the Malta dragster. Your block was a 91-92 heavy block we always like to use and yours was still std bore. So someday here it will...

Use Clevite bearings. I still say you should do a full rebuild. If you don't tank wash the bare block and head, you will be putting some metal right back into your new bottom end. Then your going to end up with rod knock again and be pissed. Do your self a favor and bit the bullet. Full rebuild.

A Turbo can leak oil out the turbine side also while not leaking out the compressor side. So looking at the intercooler pipes alone does not rule out the turbos. This is why I mentioned the downpipe.