Jose would you care to share more info/support on this crankwalk issue? I have an OS Giken Super Single. Your post is the first I've ever heard of heavy clamp loads on the 1j causing crank walk.
TPS Calibration: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42759&highlight=tps+adjustment+calibration
here is a link to all the connectors:
http://web.archive.org/web/20051216114417/www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/Connector+IDs.pdf
IIRC the grey smaller one in your picture is for...
The adapter is just a line that extends out about 8" you can get it from driftmotion. The stock 7m sender goes onto the end of the unit then you wire the stock oil pressure gauge to that. Stock 1jz cars only have a low oil pressure light so getting the gauge working is just one of the many...
It goes pig rich at 3200? There are several threads on cars having hesitation problems at 3xxx and it usually has to do with the fuel pressure and tune, but the car would go full lean for the brief period of time which would cause the hesitation. If you have a fuel pressure regulator make sure...
I'm in the same boat as Boris. I'm using CS2 however with my D90 I have to do everything in lightroom first and can't mess with my raw files in photoshop. I need to get CS4 for that reason so I guess it depends on what you work with most on if you need to upgrade or not.
If you say your check engine light is on and its not giving you any codes when you jumper te1 and e1... that's pretty good evidence the ECU is bad. What did you do when you said you "checked it" the other day? Sometimes you can't really see the problem. The only sure way to check the ECU is to...
He's trying to screw you. Get the car out of there now and do it on your own with our help. Or give it to a mechanic one of us can vouch for. I can almost guarantee both your motor and tranny both didn't just "go" at the same time. And if they did an entire new motor and tranny would be around...
I carried my radiator into pepboys to make sure I got it right the first time lmao. They have a combination there that will work. You end up having to buy 2 pieces, a Male-female to go into the radiator and then a male plug to go into the new female threads.
Stock.
This thread is stupid, use the search. Read about other people's cars. Ask more specific questions if you can't find the answer through search. Seriously.
DO NOT USE THAT PULLEY! Buy another stock one. They are supposed to be dampened. Use a stock one/ATI/Fluidamper/Titan
There are plenty of choices. But toss that aluminum one in the trash and get something that actually does its job. And you don't have to believe me, just search for the subject...
Buy it and a new gasket set(~$170) let them both sit while you get deployed (thank you for your service btw!) And when you get back replace everything on the motor, throw it in and go to town! Also I recommend doing valve stem seals while its easy and accessible out of the car, that's the only...
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