I'm going to try to start the car after I reinstall the clutch fork and slave with the PP unbolted and slid back into the housing. Hopefully this will allow me to rule out the flywheel as the cause without the PP spinning. Gonna go give it a try.
Car is 88 Supra with 1JZ and R154.
Background -
I've got an ACT HD Pressure Plate and an HPF Bronze 6-puck unsprung clutch disk that I am replacing my stock clutch/PP with. I had the flywheel machined by one of the best shops in FL with the correct step, they took care of the flywheel...
Had the same problem causing my AM2 fuse to blow, glad you got it figured out. I made a little wrap out of a bicycle tube foam cover thing around my harness in that area, just in case.
Im not super familliar with the fuel circuit, but is plugging the injectors in one-by-one an option? That way you can see if it's a certain injector/wiring or if you should be looking somewhere else, maybe before the injectors in the power wire. Sounds like a short to ground so far.
Strange...
I think I have discussed this problem in other people's threads, but I wanted to update this thread.
I ended up fixing the problem after some research on Aristo boards, the automatic Aristo ECU has a neutral rev-limit built into it that prevents the user from going over a certain RPM without...
I'm thinking the original posters problem was the neutral safety on the Aristo ECU. It has a built in rev limit that only occasionally will work sometimes. Just wanted to say for shits and giggles, I guess.
I just replaced a starter with a similar problem off of a 1JZ, solenoid would click but the starter wouldn't turn. Took the starter off and put a remanufactured one on, then started going through the old one. The old starter was absolutely filthy and full of junk in the electrical top portion...
Are you talking about the big port on the rear of the intake manifold? A picture of what you're working with would be cool.
I think you capped or need to check your ISCV, or Idle Speed Control Valve. Basically this is what bleeds air into the intake manifold to control your idle speed, I think...
You're stuttering is probably because of your current issue. Don't go changing everything trying to solve this stuttering when it is directly related to your fuel issue, fix the fuel issue first.
Your fuse blowing sounds like a short to ground somewhere in your wiring. I had the same thing...
Nitrous is just a little harder on an engine than boost. Other than that, torque is torque. An engine can only handle so much, nitrous or otherwise. 100 shot would be great on a 1j, I'm planning on running a 125-150 on top of some decent boost, we'll see how it goes.
I agree. I like those stripes, the cowl on the Supra is perfect for a stripe set just like on that car. I can't see how the back would look any worse. It may just look out of place on the back of a Supra, but not bad.
edit - That second blue Supra looks great, back and all.
They will look good, those are good looking wheels and a good color for white. The color will be different IRL obviously. (better)
I don't really like the brand though, they just rip off everyone else and make inferior wheels.
What the hell kind of "supporting mods" do you have to make a prelude run 12's? Because you either need a huge shot of nitrous and bolt ons or a decent turbo setup.
Or do you think it should run 12's but actually runs high 13's?
I would think the resale value you will earn by swapping the "low-miles" TT motorset into the MKIV would be greater than the value of just selling the motorset itself...
Just a thought.
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