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The only true way to tell is to take the head to a machinist and have it checked for warpage.

The cop was just pissed becuase he knew that he couldn't catch the Honda... :chicken: :kloguck:

Probably one of the bearings...

I can honestly say that I've never once been to that place ;).

:runaway: Well, at least we know our search function is working. ;)

That's 101.25 ft/lbs max rating with no give, not accounting for expansion of head and block when heated. The 81 ft/lbs is the old rating too IIRC, it's 80 now, so yep, 100 ft/lbs is the max. If I were the both of you, I'd get new ARP studs if both of those torque values are on ARP moly lube.

From suprasport's website, "4'' Aluminum intake pipe 45 degree [+$35.00]" Are you sure you can't talk to Greg there and see if he'll sell you one for a price?

I was referring to the OP with his torque of 100 ft/lbs with moly. That's 20 ft/lbs higher than the recommended figure. What's the cusion between the recomended value and the stress point? 25%? Yours is right there with his though... Research what the torque point is on the ARP's to where...

Depends on the person doing it and what type of ceramic coating they are applying. There are different grades that can be used. PM jdub for a quote on something that you want done, or are curious about ;).

Or talking on cell phones while negotiating traffic? ;) OT: I think it would be a smart thing to have any teenager first learning to drive to use a manual tranny as it's much harder to do the extra things you can do in an auto versus the manual. Hopefully it would make them better drivers in...

You've most likely stretched the ARP studs too much to be safe anymore. Best be using new ones this time.

Well, if you are shooting for 800 ponies, then you've got bigger things to worry about. Ever see they white MKIII up at the top of some of the pages on here? That beast is laying down more than 800 ponies and what he is using is perfectly fine, but you will definitely NOT want to use something...

It's fairly simple to do yourself, a 4" tube with about a 45* bend coming off the turbo would be about right IIRC, if not, you can trim it more to get the degree bend you'll need. a 90* 4" pipe would be better as you have more options on the degree of bend you'll need. You don't have a place...

;)

I don't have a comparison, but you could get the upper hardpipes (anything after the IC) ceramic coated to keep the hot air out and the cooler air in. You can also put a spray bar on the IC. If you have the headlight washer option on your header panel, you can modify them to spray on the IC...

If there was, it wouldn't be much, it may prolong some of the heat soak. My ceramic coated intake mani serves the same purpose ;).

Just wanted to make sure no one was getting the two confused, just in case they went out and wanted to get their turbo exhaust manifold powdercoated :runaway: ;)

A few things that may help you along: Here Here And here Also here if you indeed have a CPS, as I am thinking that's what you've got...

After doing that^, if they still don't line up, then they were installed incorrectly. If this is the case, thank the Toyota Gods that the 7M isn't an interferance motor and don't go back to that mechanic. At TDC, first cam lobes pointing straight up, cam marks lined up with the cam guard, once...

Eh, every story in the kills sections either was made up, or took place in an off road environment, such as a race track ;).