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that spacer also acts like a gasket to help keep oil/water/dirt etc out of the bell housing area. you will need to re-use the one that matches your tranny, as what on the motor was prob the auto one. yes both the autos and manuals have it, so put it on

where is it cracked? pics would be helpfull.

they do that even if you do know what your doing :P. do the basic maintnece first, brakes, suspension, check all hoses that they havnt turned into hockey puck rubber.

also the ct-26 came on more than just the supra. the MR2 and even the landcruiser ran a ct-26. also i vote for albert, atleast you know his will work.

with stiffer springs, you need less sway bar to keep the same roll stiffness. So it's not as much the speed of the weight transfer, it's the stiffness of the car and balancing it out. bigger sway bars on an already stiff suspension can decrease the total grip capacity of the axle due to...

check you rad/AC condesnor and IC for bugs and other debris that would reduce airflow

only the JZA70 Turbo-R has a stiffer bar (solid bar) while the USDM (and canadian) ones are hallow. as hvyman says, it will be a heavier bar. though if your running stiffer springs, you need less sway. otherwise your gonna end up with tank suspension, and a very rough ride.

yeah the bumpers are just stabalizers, so 90% will be hinges, 10% will be the striker.

to dark to look on mine right now, and the manaul isnt showing me. ill check it out in daylight

31 is AFM. 41 is TPS 52 is knock sensor. id check the grounds, especially the ones on the intake. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=27 whats the mod list? other than the 560's? (and the hardpipes i can see in the pic)

check the plugs in the back of the cluster. i has a similar issue with my analog cluster, one of the plugs wasnt in all the way and vibrated off.

wow....

slave clyleder fits From 01/1986 To 08/1988 the 89+ are different, but what year did your tranny come from? you will need the slave to match the transmission. difference i dont know, but im going to guess the rod that moves the clutch fork is a different length. the master on the firewall...

this is by far the safest option. but aslong as you preped the mating surfaces with the original, if its lasted 25-30k, then you are probably ok as long as you dont abuse it much. also the block will probably need machining for a MHG aswell, as the block to needs to be glass flat aswell.

the ac compressor doesnt matter, and the line are more or less universal. the condensor seems i cant find any info on,

you will need more than just the headgasket, you will need a headgasket kit, which will include everything from the HG up (intake, exaust, tb gaskets and new cam cover gaskets, most also include cam seals and valve seals) ive used fel-pro with no problems to date. as for cleaning the top of the...

i dug some info on this, mostly from a refernce for swaping efi systems into carberated vehicals. on some ecus, they use the oil pressure sensor as a "engine on" monitor. aslong as there is oil pressure it will keep the fuel flowing. if the ecu reads no oil pressure, it shuts off. not sure if...

wheres the underhood pics??

this is for the MK2, might be similar to the mk3, since toyota is awesome at not changing much. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/manual.aspx?Section=BO&P=35

if it was clutch related i would assume you would feel it everytime you pressed the pedal. when you replaced the turbo, did you reuse the exaust housing gaskets? also you might want to check the bolts like poodles says that they are tight, now that its had a few heat cycles.