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To keep alive maybe after the bump :) ... Koni yellow on softest Eibach springs Cruize Sakura ( probably Taiwan copy of Ultralite Nurburgrings) alloys: 8.5'' 235/40/18 ET35 fronts 9.5'' 265/35/18 ET38 rears I'd want to go lower... :(

Well there is the middle position where it holds the door, so if you open it fully, it has to overcome this middle bump... and it clicks :) I think he means the small pins between the two parts of the hinge (one on the door, second on the body) that holds both together?

That's the door stopper clicking. The 3rd ''hinge'' in the middle with the handle that moves. At least I think so.

I have the full door matted (2mm) inside with (same stuff like Dynamat), plus one more soundisolation foam just behind the door panel. Sound feels quite different in comparison with a stock door, I think more ''solid'' as you call it. Now I just have to get the windows tight (new felt) and...

Before: targa didn't fit in and sensless caps. Now: targa fits in, just have to do new covers or reuse the old ones and take them off time when the targa goes... (2 times a year? :D) Shit hits properly. Have to look into getting the window trim rattling away and matting the trunk lid. Then I...

Mmm... I'd like to have a 18'' SoloX someday ...mmM

This is where our opinions meet :love:

So that's the ''damaging'' you ment... I haven't noticed any panels loosening after two summers of driving the car with so I can't understand the problem here actually... I can't even undestand the difference between a new and an old car you speak of then... Plus, even if something would be...

What could possibly break? Metal panels in half? Plastic in half?

Went to the karting-track day with member ''wilson''. This one's good ''Topgear'' tried one time too

JDM all the way. Everything else = weak :D

^ I think those rattles on the outside make you look cheap. Supra is no cheap car and it's not so hard to eliminate those rattles.

Today I cruised on the highway and for funs changed the blower direciton to auto and then back at the feet and what do you know.... it started blowing heat!! But just for like 20 minutes, with a restart of the car inbetween. And then... again only cold air :(

Took the CC out and all the pins and solders looked OK. Tried it out and everything seemed to work better (didn't warm the car up though). We'll see what happens tomorrow when I try it out to the max. Thanks a lot for now! E: So tried it out, and the problem persists. I think it´s not a...

Oh yes, they do :naughty: For me, my rear mirror trim rattles a bit, and the trunklid that I plan to mat. From the interior rattle I hav just one piece somewhere I don't know... Ofcourse the rear view mirrors vibrate, but don't make any sound IIRC.

About how much pressure? Anyone?

The engine has been redone two years ago. And why I'm starting to believe madsupra is maybe right is that just after the first start, there was this rumbling behind the dash (as it was before the job) that I couldn't get out. I'm guessing it was air. And nope, no overheating. The temps stay...

Tried the direct vacuum, the valve retracts the arm, but it just blows the same warm/cold air it blew before. WTF moment... The damn system is killing me. I guess I should try tomorrow one more time.

Tried it, and with no luck. Also tried playing with the valve in the engine compartment. It sometimes works, but usually doesn't (valve arm out when blower put on cold (where it usually stays and doesn't move no matter what position the heater control is in) and arm in when on hot). Got the...

Shouldn´t the system be self-burping?