I'd be interested in theory. From where to where should the undertray be to acquire theoretically best results (high/low-pressure zones etc?)? Anyone with such knowledge?
What about the extra cooling passage that can be drilled but isn't there stock in the block near the 6th cyl? (Possible heat spot?)
(I remember here being a thread and there was one just some time ago in the German forums so that's why I wanted to ask)
I had to do this twice already:icon_bigg Cut the subframe on the inner side that's towards the diff. Take the bolt out somehow, weld a new bolt in, weld subframe.
If it starts dying at 5k, then IMO that's anyway the last shifting point. And if no overall hp's/tq's are lost....
I guess I won't change cams when going NA-T then :)
Thanks.
Bad thing is, the yellow konis have to be deinstalled to adjust and they don't klick :(, so that's why I haven't tried it already. So I think it's logical to adjust to either full soft or full stiff...
Thanks for the info!
What do you think, would the Konis on the stiffest setting be better than on the softest ? When on Eibachs.
I have the same suspension combo and thoght I have too much body roll :D and the fronts don't have good grip (though probably 80% of the cause are cheap tires...) and just now...
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