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I have seen manifold spacers somewhere in these threads and/or on sf. Try a search and you'd be surprised what you may find. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Good Luck.

It sounds like your problem is that your tranny won't go in to the pilot bearing. A sure sign of this is that your tranny still has about 1/2 inch to go before mating up flush with the engine. You can buy a clutch alignment tool for about $5 at most auto part stores. If you use the alignment...

You have to replace the speedo cable!!!! The tranny shifts due to a sensor in your gage panel which is fed by the speedo cable. The tranny will not shift correctly until you replace this. If you are still having problems after replacing the cable then do your troubleshooting.

The radio should have either a blue/white or blue/yellow wire IIRC. I think that's your power antenna wire. I bought a wiring harness for my radio for my year supra at Best Buy and just hooked it up and it works fine.

That line is your speedo line either between the main section and the tranny or the tranny line itself. The skinny coil looking piece goes inside the hose piece and it looks broken to me.

The crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) can only go on one way. There is a keyway in the crankshaft. Make sure you still have this key in there or you will never be able to adjust your timing correctly. Oh and also, the crank timing pulley (the first pulley in the timing housing on the...

I just spoke with an engineer from ARP and this is the deal. The bolts can be torqued to 85 ft/lbs with an approved moly style lube. Either ARP's own product or a regular engine assembly lube is acceptable. If you use 30 weight motor oil then you have to torque as much as 120 ft/lbs.

Oh shit....I used motor oil on my ARP's and torqued them to 85 ft/lbs. Not to hijack this thread but are you saying that I have to take them out one by one and redo them with moly lube???

Jack up the front of the car pretty high, and put a jack or 4-wheel dolly under the back end of the tranny to support and roll it under the car as the engine goes in. I usually put a piece of 2X4 between the EGR plate and the firewall to prevent damage. I once did exactly what you did and...

Oh, and what about wastegate cracks??? What is the maximum crack condition you can have without it adversely affecting the performance. From what I've read on these forums, very minor or "micro-cracks" don't really have an effect on the operation. However larger or multiple cracks will. Is there...

Alright, now you got me.....piece of cake !!! Now where do I get the rebuild kit from, and how much? BTW, awesome write up.

I think it's a "noise filter". No this isn't a bullshit post. I don't know exactly what it does but that's what it is.

The only method that ever worked for me (with the engine outside of the car) is the old 2 X 4 stuck in between the crank and the block.

That settles it, I'm not rebuilding my turbo myself.....

It can be done on the car just be careful you don't drop a valve down. I've read about people using compressed air to hold the valves closed and even threading a rope in the cylinders while doing the stem seals. BE CAREFUL !!! :x:

My stock 87 gage would be slow to react when I initially start to boost then it would "jump" and finally start to move slowly. I replaced it twice with other 87 stock gages and had the same thing. I finally used an 89 stock gage and that one works smoothly the way it should. I will eventually go...

Open-ended wrenches===NFG on exhaust nuts Use a 14mm (I think) six point socket on an extension with a wobble joint. Of course now it's too late.

Does anyone know what acid the radiator shops use to flush the scale and crap out of their radiators. Could it be muriatic acid??? Has anyone ever done this themselves and if so, how did they do it and what concentration did they use?

Sound fuel starved???? Do you have gas in your tank, if you are sure, I would check your fuel pressure.

Where in the TSRM does it explain this???? I've looked...