This one has a flate plate welded on the bottom and the top.
I think it looks kind of nice. I think that is what I want to go for if I can't find a nice shortrunner.
Would the NipponDensoMale/EV1Fem 6/Set be the set needed to connect the RC injectors to the 7mGTE harness?
What is the difference between the NipponDensoMale/EV1Fem and the DensoMale/EV1Fem? The price is the same.
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_CONNECT.asp
No, they just look at which engine you have.
If it's a 7MGTE then they assume it has 235 hp
If it's a 2JZGTE they assume it has 330 hp
and so on.
But you can't swap in a 2JZGTE because it excedes the 20% limite. Even if I swapped out the turbos for a CT26 and detuned it they will...
Yes that is possible. I considered that before rebuilding my 7M. But again you'd have to remove the turbo charger before every MOT which is every second year here.
We have the same problems with coilovers and big brake kits and wide rims. All will have to be removed before every MOT...
They don't test how much HP you have but they know what a 1UZ is rated at. So you can just stick on a supercharger afterwards and remove it every time the car needs an MOT.
This also means that you can of course tune the sh.. out of your 7M and they'll never complain because it's the orignal...
How much HP are you looking for with the supercharger?
If my 7M ever blows up ( :biglaugh: ) I'm swaping in a 1UZ.
Where I live you are not allowed to swap in a 2JZGTE but 1UZ is ok.
The reason being that the 2JZGTE has 330 hp and you are only allowed a 20% increase in hp.
That's ok I had figured that out, but thanks anyway.
Is the gap between the hood and the nose piece really that large?
If you look at the pictures of my car in my gallery the hood is very close to the nose piece. Wouldn't it look silly with half a cm gap there?
I'm adjusting the fenders on my car and I'd like to know how much gap is supposed to be between the fenders and the hood and between the hood and the nose piece.
If you have a supra that has never been taken apart or if it is perfectly aligned I'd appreciate if you could give me those...
I was wondering if there is any room to adjust the front subframe - side to side.
The reason I ask is that is seems like my front subframe has been shiftet 1/4 of an inch towards the passenger side.
I haven't dropped the subframe before so I don't know how much (if any) room there is for...
Ok, thanks. I was told that it was in the low range.
I was actually worried about the "low" compression since the motor is brand new.
Actually the compression is a bit higher now since I had the valves adjusted since that compression test was performed. Three of the valves were sticking...
Thanks. I'll bump it back to +3E and -1I then.
The compression test is actually quite low at +4E & -4I but I didn't test with a good battery nor with the throttle open.
I have posted this before:
I'll see if I can get one done tomorrow - not sure though.
ok thanks.
Do you think I have taken out too much overlap? I'm running 2mm MHG and stock turbo.
I would really like to hear from someone who has actually had these cams dialed in on a dyno. It might make it a bit easier for me to find a resonable setting.
If somone has these cams on a mkIII turbo could you post your cam settings?
I have been playing around with my BC264s and I have ended up with
+4E and -4I
That is quit a lot off from what is recommended by BC. I have not had them tuned on a dyno but just from idle quality and "feel" of...
No, but I bought the manifold that was on that car.
So I'm just going to replicate that setup and go with better and newer turbos.
Unfortunately the guy had sold of the downpipes to some Mazda guy who cut them up to use on his car with one of the turbos.
So they will have to be recreated.
jdub, do you have any more pictures of that FFIM?
With the engine in the car maybe? Does it clear the brake booster?
I see it retains both a/c and alternator in stock positions (apart from the drop down bracket).
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