bump this...
I had heard rumor yes, but have not had it confirmed. I'm awaiting a reponse from J. Watson on some bushing ?'s...I will post when i get a reply
I fit a set of 6.5 mids in my 88 doors years ago w/o the toyota pods. here is how i did it (in a nutshell):
1. measured distance between door and door pannel with speaker out.
2. cut a backing plate from 1/2 ply.
3. cut hole for speaker.
4. drilled holes in backing plate to fit toyota holes...
IJ - are you running this off a temp switch (for low speed cooling help) like DC sells or is it rpm activated (via a window switch from your ECU)? That looks like a very cool set-up (pun intended).
Nope, it was a parts plus store (actually, it's part of the 3 store Whinchester Auto family). I would imagine that a knowledgable person at Napa could help you though. Just tell them you need a longer stud for some aftermarket wheels.
for putting the new ones in, cut a hole in the back side of...
get your hub measurement (60mm as per IJ, for some reason i remember measuring 60.5mm...:dunno: ) and then the ID of the wheel bore, call America's Tire (or go to there ebay store) and buy a set of hubcentric rings. mine were aluminum (because of the large difference), i've had others that were...
Most aftermarket wheels will have a hub bore larger than what our supra's have - this is to maximize the number of cars a wheel will fit (with the same bolt pattern) The 60mm hub that toyota used is actually a little small (in comparison to other OEM's). The wheel hub bore on my Volks was like...
had a catco - worked for 1 smog cycle, then wouldn't light off (cheap cat+ lots of idle/around town driving = short life).
now a random tech - works like a champ, car runs so clean it could almost pass as an LEV... I have been running 1 cat for 4 years in CA with no issues (beyond above)...
The valve adjustments on the tops (for the Koni's it 'feels' like rebound, where the Tokico's 'feel' like compression) of the shock shaft. To keep the shaft from spinning while you tighten, use a small cresent wrench (or 7mm iirc) to hold the flat side of the shaft while tightening the nut. This...
I just put Koni's (front) and Tokico (rear) on my GF's 3g. she already had Eibach's (blew the stock shocks) - and this was the set-up RR eng said to be the best street combo. It took some adjustments to get the shocks to work together but it rides and handles very well. The key here was...
i would say check your lower a-arm bushings (right side especially). lift car up and tug wheel - if it rocks back and forth then you'll know.... SP bushings from 935 are a good deal if you don't want the whole set from suprasport
just wait and pick up an AM2 nForce 590 board (if you like nvida) or the ati 3200 chipset should rock the AM2 socket also... For the price of chips, pick the AM2 boards, 939 isn't even on their long-term roadmap (yet 754 is...sempron....weird)
I don't know that you could ever have too stiff of a chassis (brittle, yes) as it would allow the moving parts of the car (suspension) to do their job. but also realize that some force that was transfered from the suspension into the body (as flex) will now be more localized on suspension...
South bay here, there are only 4 mkiii's that i see in Santa Cruz county (besides mine) i'll keep my eye's peeled. Do you have any more details on the car, like plate numbers, other defining marks (besides the bumper)?
Good Luck -
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