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Not to compete with GT's lowering thread, thought i would throw in some pics of the koni/tanabe spring combo that i decided to put in tonight. These are only after pics, since it was already dropped with the JIC's that i had in there already... start w/ koni: add spring: bolt on car...

But, your right, 500+hp is still cool...

ah, but i didn't forget 3500lbs < 380lbs tell me about that blackhole...

let me see: (IJ's) 7M+tremec = 7700rpm+5 gears < 14,000rpm + 6 gears sorry. 7m+kart= the suck... I can't say which would be cheaper though.....;)

IJ- if you want grip, just get one of these: </END shameless plug> :runaway: :runaway:

/\ :umno: /\ the afpr is needed with those fuel system changes (fuel pump and injectors) to set base fuel pressure. A more appropriate response would have been, 'was the fp set correctly (with vacumn line off)?'... Sorry, don't know enough about the Pro to comment. This might be the time...

which compound advans are you talking about: LTS = Lotus Tuned MH = Medium Hard Compound M = Medium Compound Being more of an A/C tire, i don't know what kind of feedback you'll get. They are listed as OE for the Lotus Elise...if that helps any. sounds like a killer summer tire though...

See post #24... :sonic:

I've been running a single cat for 4+ years with no problems. Most shops (unless its toyota themselves) wouldn't even know that there was a pre-cat to begin with, so i wouldn't worry about it. I welded up a custom catback (3" borla, w/ a dynomax resonator), and with a 3" elbow+DP+3" random tech...

My new one has a little gap, but not that much. They don't cost much, so if your unsure, just change it. The rubber on the original was real soft but no tears. the new one was much stiffer. YMMV...

the Greddy cans (at least the one i have) doesn't have a valve or even a provision for the valve. I say cap it or add a drain petcock.

Its empty on the inside (the Greddy one is). Just mount it vertically and the oil will 'fall' to the bottom.

its a complete mount (bushing included) it cost me ~$32 from the local parts store. The mount is two piece - the bottom attaches to the car (don't replace that) and the top mounts to the tranny (on top) and the lower mount (bottom). Maybe it had something to do with the one i bought, but i had...

I just replaced mine (as well as flushing the tranny and replacing the shifter bushings). Got rid of a lot of vibration, but i still have a poping/ clicking noise from the rear also (this rear has less than 25K on it, kind of irritated). I was hoping that it was from the front of the tranny...

ok then - are you talking about the: a. targa seals (wrap vertically around the a and c pillars) b. roof seals (attatched to the targa above the window) or c. the window seals for a hardtop (which is why i'm not exactly sure what your reffering to :icon_conf ) Let me know and i will ask...

I'm waiting on a price quote for some other parts from mr. watson, when i get my list finalized (hopefully by this weekend), i could order them for you. i'll keep you posted on my contact with Jeff... anyone else?

No worries. It is not as easy people think it is, yet its not so difficult that the majority of people can't get it. In the end, some good info can save you a lot of money, time and give you a great sounding system that fits your needs. And at the end of the day, that is all that matters...

Thanks Big A!

using those most famous words: Search Not here, but google and the web are a good start (/sarcasm) here is a place to begin (courtesy of google) while it won't answer your questions directly, it will explain a lot of the WHY. At one time, JL had a good amount of tech stuff on their...

I'll make the suggestions simple: 1. Don't pick an amp until you have a sub 2. don't pick a sub until you know where you plan on mounting it A small cabin (our cars) coupled with large reflective surfaces (read rear hatch) do not take much speaker to fill the air. Say you have your sub...