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The instructions say to remove the cam position sensor....is this necessary?....I don't see how it's in the way of the lifters and shims. Edit: I thought about it and I'm sure its necessary for when I go to install the cam shaft bc the CPS cant be in when I put the cam shaft back in.

nevermind....got it out...now the fun starts

I removed the 7 bearing caps on both cam shafts but the cam shafts seem to be stuck as Im not able to pull them out....I tried putting the cam gear bolt back in the front of the shaft to help me pull a little but no luck. I did notice the ass end of each cam shaft lift up a little when bearing...

awesome....thanks...yea I was also wondering why we would even remove the pins but I'll just leave them in.

Quick question...so I cracked the bolts lose on the cam gears and removed the cam gear and the instructions say to mark the position of the match pin in the cam shaft before removing the match pin....not sure exactly what I'm marking? Am I marking the pin to the # 2 timing cover? The pin goes...

Yea I ordered the Lisle 36050 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit which is the one discussed in the write-up so hopefully this makes thing easier. I have taken apart everything so far and am at the point where I need to remove the cam gears. I am just waiting on the spanner wrench I ordered...

JDM - Thanks for the feedback. I am going to purchase all the parts/tools today and hopefully get started on this in the next few days. I am sure I will have questions as I go.

So I am going to attempt to replace the valve seals using the rope trick without removing the head as the head has been recently shaved and torqued down with ARP studs. I was a moron by not having the valve seals replaced while the head was off. So rather than paying a mechanic $800 to do this...

ok thx for the info guys.....has anyone ever ordered anything from c7? They have a stock looking front lip. http://www.c7carbon.com/front-lip-splitter-c-26_58_65

I own a 89 supra turbo 5 speed and mods include full 3 inch exhaust, intake and BOV. The head has also been shaved with a new stock head gasket and ARP head studs torqued to 90ft lbs. No fuel system or intercooler or turbo upgrades. I only plan on running 10psi with my supra and do not plan...

My brother used wiseco pistons and so far so good

So then I guess its not pugs and wires if you are able to run that kind of power/boost on stock wires and plugs....Im still probably going to change out the wires and plugs since the one wire was damaged but I'll be looking to move toward lex afm, 550's, walboro 255 and afpr in the near future.

You are correct...I am on stock AFM, injectors, and pump.

yea stock boost from the factory is 6.8psi but since putting on the full exhaust on a cool night i see the boost gauge approach just under 8psi at WOT. The TSRM says gap to .8mm (.031") and since my car only has BPUs I think I should stick with that.

After some more research I may go with ngk coppers pn 4644 and gap to .8mm (.031")

Ok thanks for the input....new iridium plugs were just put in when the head was done...probably 1k miles on them. I know there has been a lot of discussion on this forum about the best plugs to use. I will start out by getting new wires and gap the plugs. Should I stick with the iridiums or...

I currently have an 89 7MGTE (JDM motor) 5spd. Mods include full 3" exhaust (turbo elbow, dp, test pipe, blitz nurspec) , blitz ss bov, intake, new iridium plugs and magnecor wires. The head was also resurfaced with a stock hg and arp head studs. So the other day I was racing a 300ZX tt and...

I think there are a lot of people that would attend that just dont know about it......I happen to search "Philly meet" today to check and this thread was like 30 threads down in the list....not sure why it's not the first thread at the top of the list......i almost logged out thinking there was...

I'm in

awesome...thx