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Yea, although most of the shims were on the tight side you should be okay... Smack the valves into position for afew hundred km's and then see how it feels. Its easy enough to swap out shims now that I have that tool..I can do it in seconds. That and I found you can also buy shims from...

Cam and Crank seals are about as easy as changing your timing belt. (Same amount of shit to be removed). Your cam seals are on the front of your camshafts, behind the cam gears. Your crank seal is behind your timing gear on your crankshaft, which is behind the crank pulley. Valve covers can...

Cause I have never heard them refered to as siamese bores before. I also just lol'd at the dick in gumboot. You gotta stop, I'm getting looks at work.

I lol'd

Man this Ryan guy needs one of those specail needs workers to follow him around and spell for him. Jesus christ.

The head touches it. It needs to be the same level or you will have leaks like there is no tomorrow. You just better hope you didnt warp your head torquing it to an uneven surface like that...

Well I got my 92 about 3 months ago if I remember right, and it had a bad thermostat that I diagnosed when I first purchased the car. I was a fat lazy fuck and sat on my ass and I didn't change it, and now I've fucked the headgasket something fierce. (168 000 kms) Well I made a trip up...

I havn't ran it through NashMan translator 2.0 yet..give it a minute.

If you didnt machine it with the front cover you have to either: A) find a robot-like machinist that could pull off milling it. And the more likely yet correct option: B) Pull the motor, you fucked up, likely you will not get a good seal and will have to buy a new metal head gasket...

Just got off phone with them. They just recieved an updated batch of the sealant that they use around the coolant passages, and once Ryan approves of the mixture he is going to drive down to Driftmotion and pick the motor up. Development is happening, slowly. But at least its happening.

Or, since the hoses are just pieces of rubber, you could buy them at your local auto parts store for $ and be happy. And our Toyota dealer here in Victoria BC wants 60 dollars for the valve cover to block vent hose. It will cost him way too much for oem unless he orders from Jay Marks.

If unsure about the condition, replace it. If you only go back to a factory gasket and aftermarket fastening hardware, it will likely stand up to what you plan on throwing at it. If you decide to do a MHG, do it properly and pull the motor.

Did you put the mounts on the wrong sides? or did they ever even come off?

Lol I never recommended it myself :icon_bigg But I know that his small hoses have been replaced recently (one of which already blew up).

No coolant or PCV hoses though, which are the ones that get toasted. Check the hose that comes off the front of the drivers side valve cover, behind the alternator. Mine was FK'd, got a new one from Champion.

My motor didnt land in the mounts initally. Then Nashman used his Yeti like strength, picked it up, and dropped it in the mounts.

Heh, it's not THAT hard to figure it out anyway :P And the hose techniques kit only does vacuum lines correct?

Check your hoses. Can you bend them? If so, you're good to go. If it snapped get a new one. However with the stock BOV think about replacing that in its entirely with a Bosch style blowoff valve. Call the Saab Saturn dealer in Victoria, they will hook you up for about 75 dollars...

I always thought that while under boost you would get vacuum from the accordian hose, due to the turbo pulling the air. While not on boost I can see the TB being the source of vacuum for the motor as the engine has to pull the air through itself. Just my thoughts, so shoot me if I'm wrong...

I think a big /fail is in order. /FAIL