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Sounds like a plugged exhaust system. Muffler or cat. Disconnect the ehaust manifold at the header pipie and see if that helps it run on up. and should stop the heating. If so, it could be either part plugged, so you;ll have to check the cat, then muffler.

They are all correct. Over the years, I've put more seals in in more cars and trucks than I care to count. I always 'easily' manage to do so without a tool like the one you mention.

Yes. Low fluid can cause the problem. You must have a leak. Better find and fix it soon, as it will only get worse. If it gets too low, you may get air into the system, and just filling it up won't make it work. Then your stuck !

This correct !!! And after that, wax and buff them. But... I also was noticing on my '89 that the "RED" ness is fading out. It is a problem that happens as time and sunlight do their dirty work. I've seen some old cars that the lens hardly looked red anymore. I wonder if the thread...

What the TSRM is refering to is this..... When you squeeze, or pry, or press, (whatever) the caliper piston back into the caliper to make room for the new pads, the fluid will go back up into the master cylider resevior. If you don't remove some fluid first it will over flow onto your engine...

How was the dampener surface where the seal rides??? There is a sleeve made that you can put over the dampener if there is a groove worn. A new seal won't hold if there is a groove. Also, I have seen (many cars) oil find its way out past the crank and dampener/keyway, and come out from...

NEVER spend $$$$ on parts you may not need !!! Period !!! Ask around, alot, and find out who does good diagnostics in your area. Have it diagnosed first. (how do I know?? because I manage a smog repair shop) I see it happen everyday. They come in telling me how they changed this &...

If you can drive comfortable where you live, taking all the components out (less the evaporator until you HAVE to get in there) would give you less weight, and more room. Some N/A owner said they mounted a blower where the compressor was.

We do conversions at my shop. Its $210 total, OTD. R12 is $85 lb. R134a is $28 lb. I have a tiny tiny leak that causes me to ad 4-5 oz each summer, once a year. I converted mine 3 years ago. I live in the Mojave Desert where all summer it gets 90*-110*. The a/c works good. I have...

Pumping the peddle on fuel injected cars does NOT do anything to help. Just turn the key, and it should start and idle per the computer. Sounds like you may have a TPS issue. Possibly AFM.

C&R (brake cleaner, carb spray, etc) Just came out with a spray for cleaning MAF sensors, and will work on AFM too. $3.50 can. Pepboys, Carquest, Autozone, wherever they sell C&r stuff.

Engine Installation labor should not be more than $1000 at a regular shop. Overheating ...how's your fan clutch ?? Put a 180* thermostat in too. And a new cap.

You can get a radiator online for about $130 delivered in 2 days. radiator.com is one. google for your car. PS...if you can drive, you can change a supra radiator !

I've had a bit of experience with gas sitting too long in the tank. Also I recently read an article in MOTOR mag on this. Gasoline may not be what you pay for. You might get regular thru the premium pump. The mag went all over the country testing gas at all brands of stations. The various...

I found one near the battery. Use a test light with the key in the 'on' position to find a hot wire, then shut key off to check when it gets juice. The relay won't draw much voltage to operate it. Use a direct battery hook up for the main juice thru the relay to feed the fan.

The oil pan has a problem that can develop. Mine did. With the oil removed, put you little finger in the hole and feel all the way around inside. It seems the 'factory welded in' nut/threads is not 'all the way' around. There seems to be a little gap, like a "C". After many changes...

A new #3 gasket is about $35 from toyota. The spark plug boots on most after market sets don't seem to lock in at the gasket, which leaves a little gap for water to get into the hole. That's why most folks don't pressure wash the engine.

I've been running 15* for 3 years in my 89 N/A, with NO ill effects. The knock sensor will back off the timing if it senses any 'pinging'. Factory is 10* base timing. 5 more degrees gets you more power, and is not gonna 'break' things. I push it hard, and have NEVER heard a ping, knock...

Check the TRSM. There is a SST they say to use, and maybe even remove the hub assembly. But of course it can be done on the car with a "Ball Joint" tools set from Mac, Snapon, or Matco, or independent tool truck guy. I did it on the car with one of those sets I borrowed from someone.

Dealer...Good parts store. You may have to rig something up.