eventually, the exhaust manifold will be done, I have another one that I'm doing some port work to - so its going to be a little while before that's done.
Besides, since everything just got back together, I just want to drive the damn thing!!!
The highest I've seen so far (while driving) is +15F over ambient. In traffic or a hot start, I've seen a more, but it always drops back done once I get moving.
For reference, my IAT sensor is near the fender on my IC pipes.
I'm running a South Bend feramic full face on an unorthodox flywheel. The engagement is smooth - almost stock like and should hold over 450ft lbs. I only have 125mi on it so far so I haven't really pushed it. Even though it gets smoother the more miles I put on it, it doesn't like to be slipped...
I actually have an efan set-up. I added a prosport h2o temp gauge in the block drain (rear, exhaust side) and wanted to make sure that the sensor was both accurate (enough) and didn't heat soak. Knowing the stock clutch kicks in ~200-205 and I have a 90C toyota thermostat, I figured it was a...
here you go, direct links:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/onefastguy/engine%20complete/engine_complete013.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb141/onefastguy/engine%20complete/engine_complete012.jpg...
SS5:
Actually, if you look at the first pic, my center section powder coated black (1500F HiTemp). The powder could handle the heat, just wouldn't have the insulating properties of the ceramic.
edit: John @ MDC had the center section done while he was rebuilding the unit.
I know its a rarity, but for the OP, a torsen rear (they are usually packaged w/4.10's from JDM cars - TTR and Turbo A, correct?) do NOT do well w/ drag launching. The worm gears within a torsen don't like shock loading - stick with the clutch type (which all US bound cars came with).
I usually like to plug people what they do a great job on things in the buyer/seller area, but I wanted to point out what a great job jdub does with the ceramic coating service that he offers the members of SM. I don't recall every part I've had him do, but overall, the cleanability of parts as...
And then I drove it some more yesterday, made some additional changes and I think i'm getting there. The only issue I'm having is that the VF signal doesn't seem to be working anymore on the pro - so I'll check it at the diag block and see if its a wiring issue (shouldn't be, as all connections...
whoops, I thought I had updated this thread (I did over of FTT). anyway, here was Wednesday's results:
update:
moved the vac source and it was better. fooled with the TPS and MAP settings (in response) and it was much better still - almost stockish (good).
So I put ~ 25mi on it (gas station...
Here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=24
then:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=21
lastly:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20
In doing it by the book, you should be close to 10btdc...
(cross posted from http://www.fullthrottletech.com/showthread.php?t=3297)
question for you guys (new install)-
I have a real bad rpm stumble at initial tip in of the throttle, as well as a bad hesitation right around 2k. I tried fooling with the tps enrich and decay settings, and it...
I had an entire tranny built by them. I only have 7miles on it so far, but its feels so much better than a stock 125k mi tranny and its not even broken in yet...
So here is what I found so far
Is this in the right direction?
I didn't see any data on Canton's site concerning this. Maybe I'll email them and see what they 'can' tell me.
Marlin Trans + NM shifter gets a big :thumbup:
I only have 7miles on it so far, and while its still not as nice as a 3550, its still a huge improvement over stock.
Back to you regularly scheduled programing....
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